Cassini's blog - Cassini Blog#136 A trip down memory lane (or tunnel)

Cassini Blog#136 A trip down memory lane (or tunnel)

Cassini's blog

Simon and Sally, Nigel and Catherine

Sun 4 Aug 2024 18:34

Cassini Blog#136 A trip down memory lane (or tunnel)

As part of our time here in Southern Spain we decided that a trip down memory lane to Gibraltar would be a good idea. Simon and I have been here numerous times in our Naval careers and Catherine and the children came here for Christmas 1994 when I was visiting with HMS Coventry.

So yesterday, we set off early before the sun got too hot and made our way across the Spanish border (always a joy) and the runway at Gibraltar airport (always a bit bizarre) and headed into Gib.

We then had to negotiate a very steep climb up Castle steps (about 300 of them) before arriving at the Moorish castle which marks the start of the upper rock nature reserve. After paying our entrance fee (£19 each) we started with the Moorish castle which dates back to the end of the first millennium when the Moors controlled most of southern Spain for a number of centuries. It was fascinating to see the culture and technology that was around so many years ago. There were fantastic views over the isthmus to Spain and an added bonus was that inside the stone structure it was very cool!

We moved further up the hill to see the World War 2 tunnels. Sadly, they had an electrical issue and so we could only see a small part of it, but we promised to come back later if the problem was solved. It was also very cool inside the tunnels. On we went up the hill to the next attraction which was the “City under Siege” exhibition. The Great Siege took place between 1779 and 1783 when a combined Spanish and French force tried all they could to take the Rock. The Rock, however, is a formidable defensive position and despite starvation and rampant disease the British held out for 4 years with much fewer numbers than their attackers. For a full history of Fortress Gibraltar see here: https://www.historic-uk.com/HistoryMagazine/DestinationsUK/History-of-Gibraltar/

Our next stop up the hill was the great siege tunnels and gun emplacements. We were greeted at the entrance by the famous Gibraltar monkeys (or Barbary apes) who are a massive tourist attraction in themselves (but don’t get too close!). During the great siege, the British tunnelled through the rock to set up gun batteries on the Northern face in order to pound enemy troops trying to cross the small land isthmus between Spain and Gibraltar. These are a marvel of ingenuity and engineering and a fascinating visit (with great military brass band music as accompaniment). The sheer scale of the achievement is breathtaking.

After a quick picnic lunch, we returned to the Second World War tunnels, which thankfully had resolved there electrical problem, and managed a better look around. During the second world war the British saw Gibraltar as absolutely key to winning the war in the Mediterranean and North Africa and were determined to hold on to it at all costs. Many existing tunnels were expanded and new ones dug creating a labyrinth of 34 miles of tunnels inside the rock which could accommodate 16,000 people. Again the sheer scale of the operation is mindboggling. It included barracks, shops, hospitals, ammunition storage and everything to sustain people underground for extended periods. Many of the Royal Navy’s exploits in the Mediterranean were launched from Gibraltar and it proved a vital jumping off point for supporting Malta which was under siege during the war. There is much renovation work going on here to make it an even more fascinating attraction.

After a long and hot day, we decided a cold beer was in order so down the steps we went to the famous “Donkey’s Flip Flop”, otherwise known as the Horseshoe pub. Many a happy hour has been spent in this pub by Royal Navy sailors down the years and is a legend in its own right in Naval folklore.

A walk back across the border stopping off at Waitrose (yes they have one here) before an afternoon nap and then a lovely meal out at a restaurant just outside the marina rounded off our time here beautifully.

We now start our tour of the Costa del sol and Costa Blanca with a first stop in Estepona tonight.

Nigel