A dinghy adventure up the Ria Guadiana

Seaduced
John & Jane Craven
Tue 24 Aug 2010 10:43
From our base in Vila Real we decided to venture up the river Guadiana by dinghy. The suspension bridge has a height of 20m at low tide, but as we are about 23.5m plus some bits and pieces at the top of the mast we can't get under. Almost everyone that we have spoken to who has been in this area has told us what a fantastic place it is to visit and that it is beautiful, so we couldn't miss out. Having failed to find the tourist office to look at ways of getting there and how far it is, we decided the dinghy was our only option. It seemed from the chart to be a out 20 miles up river which is by far the furthest dinghy trip we have ever attempted.
When we left the river was quite choppy and bumpy, despite us having waited for nearly two hours from when we intended to set off, and the first quarter of the journey was hard work - wind-over-tide for those in the know or, for the non-sailors, very lumpy & slow. After that it settled a bit and we didn't have to hang on quite so tightly!!
As we travelled down the river we saw large groups of storks wading on the river banks and some in flight as well. They really are very graceful and elegant.
After about two hours we arrived in Alcoutim - we knew we had arrived by the large "Welcome to Alcoutim" sign - we had joked about seeing a sign as we would have had no idea if we were there, as it is extremely difficult to judge distances with no landmarks or chart!! We landed the dinghy and went to find a shop - we had come prepared for a picnic with our picnic set but no food as we thought it wouldn't last the trip in the sun. The supermarket, however, was shut until 3pm so we had to find alternative food. We went to a cafe in the town square with the worst decor ever and had a vey nice fish lunch for about £15 - bargain!!

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Alcoutim is a very small place so exploring didn't take very long - the tourist map we got had scale of about 1 inch to 80 metres! It was at best about half a mile in each direction. After lunch we wandered to the castle but as it was roasting hot we decided to venture to Sanlucar de Guadiana, the Spanish town on the opposite river bank.
Sanlucar... well, if you imagine a wild west ghost town? The streets were completely deserted, we saw 3 teenagers sunbathing by the dinghy pontoon but apart from that nothing and no-one. The houses were all shut up and there was nothing happening at all. This town clearly takes its' siesta very seriously! After a quick walk round we left to return home. The trip home was better than the trip up river with about two thirds calm and one third rougher at the end.