Mary is headed home to the children of Clay County. After pulling the boat
out of the water at Manoel Island Yard, Mary and I checked into the Castle
Hotel in downtown Valletta. We explored the down town area, bought a 'Top
Ten' book on Malta. A day or two ago we took the tourist bus around the
south end of the island so we had a decent survey tour of the place. We had
topes and beers at a sidewalk cafe, walked around a lot, and then stumbled
on a theater that had Harry Potter playing in English and elected to do the
movie instead of the wine festival. We stopped in at the close of that
day's wine festival for a couple of dances, rocking to 'Dancing in the
Streets' to a live band overlooking Valletta's Grand Harbor.
The next morning after Mary read the guide book and planned up the day we
started with the Co-Cathedral... one the most ornate baroque churches I have
seen. (while not an expert... I have seen a lot of churches by now!) It
was the church for the order of St. John Knights that rained here from 1535
to almost 1800 when Napoleon took over. They are the same guys that built
up Rhodes and then were forced to move to Malta. Next we did the Grand
Master's palace and present seat of government. Lots of armor, swards, and
old guns to look at. Interesting display of cross bows. During the siege
of 1535 it rained a lot making the use of open powdered guns ineffective at
best. The Knights carried the day by using very powerful cross bows that
were able to go through a shield and the armored guy behind it. the first
Turkish shiskabob...
We ate and drank our way through the afternoon, did the museum, and ducked
back into the air conditioned movie to see Cars 2. We went to that night's
edition of the 10th annual wine festival at around 7 PM. 10 Euros bought
you a glass and all the wine you could drink until 11:30 PM. We dined on
roast suckling pig, potatoes, and big chunks of crusty bread and settled on
several glasses of the local Maltese Shiraz... a little better than the
Pizano if drink back home. We met a couple from the UK and ate and listened
to the live music. At 8:30 PM we rushed to find a taxi... none-to-be
found... to get Mary to the airport for here 10:00 to Madrid. Hope she made
it. The rush to the airport made the goodbyes quick and more bearable.
I took the jammed bus back to the boat... missed my stop in the dark and had
to back track about a mile. (ticket good all week for 12 Euros) Checked in
with security and Michael greeted me as I went up the ladder. He had hooked
up the power, scoped out the bathrooms, and ushered the first round of
workmen who have already removed the prop, and uncoupled the shaft from the
engine. Encouraging. It is Sunday today and I don't expect much to be
going on today.
History... Politics... The Knights of St. John were formed during the first
crusade in Jeruselham in 1100 AD. When Jerusleham was won by the Turks they
moved to Rhoades and later to Malta. They were formed into groups like
fraternities along national lines, French, Spanish, English, etc. Each had
a 'house', and a chapel at the main church, each trying to out do the other.
Only nobles could belong and these guys were rich. Their council elected a
'Grand Master' for life who functioned like a King or Pope. This was the
height of chivalry and a religious model of society... the Catholics on one
side funded by the Roman church and European nobility... and on the other
side the Ottoman Turks seeking to spread their version of the one true
faith. Judging by the fortifications around here... it was pretty real to
these guys. I need to find out who really built all this stuff. I have a
hard time picturing Sir Galahad with a shovel in his hands.
Malta was a hot spot during WWII as well and has the distinction of being
the most bombed place on earth, having received over 6000 tons of bombs
courtesy of the Italian and German air forces. Most of the harbor areas,
like where we are now, were reduced to rubble.
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Diary Entries
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