Eilean na Nollaig and Other Parts of Canada
Catacaos
Graham Shaw
Thu 19 Aug 2010 20:41
Following immediately on from the last blog, we crossed the Canso Straits
shipping lanes, and then passed through the
St.Peter's Canal lock and onto the Bras d'Or Lakes very smoothly, thanks to
the very helpful lockkeeping staff, and continued northwards, through a
couple of opening bridges and anchored off the town of Baddeck, in the
pouring rain. David and Tamsin on yacht Twice Eleven were moored ahead of
us, but it was too wet to venture out. By the next morning the rain had
stopped and we caught up with our friends, and went ashore. We realised we
had arrived during Baddeck Week Sailing Regatta. This happens to coincide
with Cowes Week back in the UK, and I'm sure it must be quandry for many
sailors which one to go to. Anyway, a good time was being had by all, with
much partying in the yacht club after each day's racing. Our favourite was
the Old Gits Race, where some of the more senior Race Week participants race
against each other in Optimist dinghies. For those not familiar, the
Optimist is a very small, single-sailed, boxy little boat in which small
children learn to sail. You see them everywhere around the coast of France,
with hordes of five to ten year olds crashing into each other, capsizing and
generally causing mayhem. Anyway, this race was won in very light airs by
an eighty-one year old gentleman who apparently wins every year.
One afternoon Lucas and I went to the Alexander Graham Bell Museum - he was
the town's most famous resident. As everyone knows, he invented the
telephone. But probably not everyone knows that he also invented (or at
least was very involved with the development of) the hydrofoil - something
with which we are very familiar back home. That afternoon Lorraine
travelled inland a bit to find the Rockinghorse Ranch, where she went riding
for the first time in ages, which she enjoyed. The museum had a huge
selection of toys to play with, in a kids' area, so everyone had an fun
afternoon.
After a week in Baddeck, we made our way back southwards towards the town of
St.Peter's, near the canal entrance to the lakes. On the way we spent one
night anchored off the town of Orangedale (pop.75). For such a small town
(note our arrival had increased the population by 4%) it had the most
incredible shop, which stocked everything from all the groceries you could
want, to chainsaws, gas ovens, petrol, washing machines, engine spare parts,
bullets for your rifle, and many other things which we probably missed. We
bought Jersey Milk chocolate. Apparently if they don't have what you're
looking for (a scenario which seems unlikely) the store owner will send his
wife to Port Hawkesbury in the pick-up to get it for you.
Orangedale also boasts a railway museum, which was unfortunately was closed
on the day we were there, but we were able to wander around outside and the
smallest member of our crew had great fun climbing all over the engines,
wagons and carriages on display. There was also a snowplough train
(snowplow in American), which was enormous - the blade must have been at
least five metres high and the same wide. Just gives some idea of what
winter's like here!
The Bras d'Or Lakes have beautiful scenery, which we admired on our way
south again back to St.Peter's. While anchored there, we met up with
another British yacht - Squander, crewed by Adrian and Jan. And a day or
two later, Andy and Sue on Spruce appeared. It was great to see them again -
we first met in Antigua, and were in the BVI and also Bermuda at the same
time earlier this year. After leaving Bermuda, they sailed to New York, up
the Hudson River, through the canal system and onto the Great Lakes. From
there they cruised up the St.Lawrence River, and eventually down to Cape
Breton Island to find us. Quite an epic journey by all accounts. There is
a pic of Andy reading Lucas a story (practising for eventual grandchildren
maybe?!)
After a week in St.Peter's we went up to Christmas Island with Spruce, and
met up with John and Jenny on yacht Al Shaheen (of Salcombe), who we first
met in Shelburne, to go to a ceilidh (see pic of the three yachts anchored
together.) The
folk round here are mostly descendants of Scottish immigrants, and Gaelic is
still spoken by many
people. It came as a surprise to hear a language which we can't make any
sense of! Anyway, there was much bagpipe music, step dancing and gaelic
singing. This week is their annual Feis (festival), and the ceilidh which
was held in the local Fire Hall, was part of that. Lucas got to sit in the
fire engine, so he had the best fun of all!
Having spent more than two weeks on the lakes, we have decided we really
need to be pushing on south again, so yesterday we came back through the
lock at St.Peter's and tied up for the night. An early (0600) start this
morning has us on our way back down the coast of Nova Scotia towards
Shelburne, where we hope to arrive before it gets dark tomorrow.
In case you're wondering, Eilean an Nollaig is gaelic for Christmas Island.
Bu Deonach Leam Tilleadh, as they say round here.
