Hanamenu Bay, Hiva Oa
Scott-Free’s blog
Steve & Chris
Tue 4 Jun 2013 00:34
09:45.902S 139:08.437W
Tuesday 4th June 2013
Distance run: 20 nmiles
Getting out of Atuona was easy in the end. We
had to move forward as we were over the top of another boat's anchor, but
otherwise no problem. The trip round to the north east coast was pleasant
for the most part, and we sailed downwind through the channel between Hiva Oa
and Tahuata. Once round the corner, though, we were met by winds from a
squall that were right on the nose, and this together with an adverse current
had our speed down to 1.8 knots under power! We waited outside the
anchorage for the squall to pass, and then went in. We couldn't decide if
we wanted to stay, as it seemed rather lumpy, but eventually decided to rather
than press on another 8 nmiles into the wind to the next anchorage, where
conditions could be even worse!
We anchored behind the only boat that had a stern
anchor out, and then shortly after the wind did a reversal and we ended up stern
to stern with him, and getting closer as we pulled the chain round. We
waited until the wind turned us back again, and then we put out our own stern
anchor and that solved the problem and kept our nose into the swell which made
it much more comfortable. Shortly after, the rest of the boats in the
anchorage also deployed stern anchors as the swell was becoming quite
unpleasant.
The next day the wind and swell had died down
considerably, and the sun was shining, so we went ashore for a walk. The
beach was dark brown sand and riding the surf to land on it was very
exciting! We went with Rod & Mary in their dinghy, and in
the scramble to all get out and get it up the beach before the next breaking
wave I managed to get my foot caught and ended up falling backwards into the
dinghy as a wave broke over it. Oh well. once you're that wet you can only
get drier!
We explored ashore for a couple of hours - several
buildings and some fences, but no sign of anyone. Lush green vegetation, a
pebbly stream we paddled around in for a while and a pool fed by a spring, deep
enough to swim and cool off in. We collected a few windfall mangoes, and
some limes, which is not strictly ethical since they still belong to the people
who own the trees, but they would have just rotted on the ground so we didn't
feel too bad about taking a few. After we had gone back to the boat, some
locals returned, and gave some other cruisers enough bananas for every boat in
the anchorage - and they would not accept any payment. So we were pretty
well stocked up with fruit.
Hanamenu anchorage from the
beach.
The 'swimming
pool'.
Ripe mangoes and limes collected on our
walk.
Bananas given to us by the locals.
The following day was also a pleasant one, and we
planned to just chill out on the boat and maybe do a few jobs. Steve went
over to Always Saturday to help Ron mend his whisker pole, and came back saying
that there was a goat roast ashore and everyone was invited. So we took
the rib ashore, braving the waves a second time, and joined a group of cruisers
cooking goat over an open fire. Apparently one of them had joined some
locals the night before on a wild pig hunt, and in the absence of any wild pigs
they had caught a goat. He was cooking his share of the spoils. I
enjoyed the roast breadfruit, but passed on the goat.
Goat roasting.
Wild ginger.
Rod & Mary didn't join us ashore for two
reasons: firstly Mary had been eaten alive by biting insects the day before, and
secondly they had spent much of the previous afternoon and this morning
re-anchoring, for a variety of reasons. We decided to have one more day in
this anchorage before moving on as they now felt they needed a
rest!