Puerto Ayora, Santa Cruz
Scott-Free’s blog
Steve & Chris
Wed 17 Apr 2013 02:05
0:44.961N 90:18.584W
Tuesday 16th April 2013
Distance run: 47 nmiles
We arrived in Puerto Ayora on the island of Santa
Cruz mid-afternoon, having managed to sail for just two of the eight hours
the journey took. There was little wind and the seas were calm for most of
the passage, but the swell began to build after we passed Santa Fe, a small
uninhabited island that lay right in our path.
Santa Fe is a green but uninhabited
island.
Puerta Ayora, or Academy Bay is a very busy
anchorage.
When we entered the bay, named by the British as
Aacademy Bay, the anchored boats were rocking back and forth and some were
rolling from side to side in the swell. We had been warned this was an
uncomfortable anchorage, and with the swell running it was certainly going to be
lively! We had unearthed our kedge anchor line from the aft locker on the
way, and it looked like we would be needing it. The boats that didn't have
a stern anchor out were rolling quite spectacularly.
We found a spot that looked slightly less lively
and dropped the bow anchor. Then it was time for an 'anchoring beer', a
tradition learnt from Rod & Mary, before lowering the rib and taking the
kedge anchor out to our stern. Once the slack was pulled up on the kedge,
we were sitting nicely with our bow into the swell and it wasn't at all
uncomfortable. Steve suggested that he deserved another 'anchoring beer'
as two anchors equals two beers! I couldn't really argue with
that!
We called our agent's rep and she arrived late
afternoon with the Port Captain to collect our paperwork and so that he could
ask us important questions, like how many fire extinguishers and children do we
have. Irene is a lovely lady who speaks a few words of English and between
us we managed to understand each other and get the formalities done with a few
laughs thrown in.
The anchorage is quite manic, with local tour boats
arriving and leaving constantly, ribs ferrying passengers from the cruise boats
to and from shore, and water taxis plying their trade, and all of them passing
us at close quarters and at speed. We joined Rod & Mary for sundowners
in the evening and agreed that we didn't want to stay here any longer than
necessary!
So today we
took a water taxi ashore and explored the town and the Charles Darwin Research
Centre. We passed the fishermen's market where fresh fish were being
prepared for sale, and were amused to see the seals, pelicans and other assorted
birds waiting around for the offcuts. At least there was minimal mess and
waste as the animals did the cleaning up!
Puerto Ayora is a modern
town.
Waiting for the offcuts at the fishermen's market.
Marine iguanas sunning themselves on the
pavement.
The view across the Bay from the fishermen's
dock.
At the Charles Darwin Research Centre we followed
the trail that led to land iguanas which are unique to Galapagos, to the
tortoise nursery and more giant tortoises. Unfortunately, we were not able
to see 'Lonesome George' the last remaining Pinta tortoise, as he sadly is no
longer remaining. He died last June, and all we were able to see was where
he used to live and a plaque to his memory.
At the Charles Darwin Research Centre on Santa
Cruz.
RIP
Lonesome George
Baby tortoises being reared in captivity to
ensure their survival.
Yum, yum, this somewhat rotten vegetation
is delicious!
Land iguana.
Some of the tortoises had orange-coloured
heads.
On the way back through town we made enquiries with
a couple of tour operators about a tour to North Seymour, an island at the north
of Santa Cruz. This is recommended as a must-do whilst on this island, and
so we booked ourselves onto a tour tomorrow. By then we were all ready for
lunch and so we followed directions given by the tour office to a street full of
little cafes doing lunch and enjoyed a two course lunch with juice for $4
each.
We spent the rest of the afternoon tracking down
the two chandleries in town and then visiting the supermarket to get some
bread. Then back to the boats, a little footsore, to get stuff ready for
the trip tomorrow.