Squally McSquall face and the wizard bird 15:13:26N 50:37:13W
It
has been, probably, the bumpiest 24 hours of our run so far. The wind has been
a consistent F5 mostly 18-21kts from the East, occasionally a little south of
East and stronger during squalls. The sea state is what has caused most
discomfort as we seem to have a combination of wave patterns all coming at us
from different angles making conditions aboard anything from "quite
rolly" to "thrown around like a pea in a can" but we are
managing perfectly ok and Hamble Warrior's galley is still turning out some amazing
dishes despite the rather violent motion (more of that shortly!) We
had a pretty settled night and, despite Jamie getting a little rain during his
watch, we had no squalls and didn't need to touch the sails as we had them both
reefed down before bed. I
wedged myself into my bunk using as much bedding and clothing as I could find
easily to hand and once "packed in place" had a peaceful night's
rest. Jamie didn't call me until nearly 5am as he had been getting plenty of
rest in the cockpit and after we swapped places he reported a very comfortable
few hours sleep. Meep spent most of the night in his hammock as that seemed to
be the most comfortable spot for him with the lively conditions - he
occasionally disappeared up through the deck hatches that lead out onto the
coachroof where he is completely enclosed by our upturned dinghy. Here he would
make some strange high-pitched grumbling and then return to his hammock. I'm
sure he was put-out by the pitching sea state but I'm also pretty convinced he
was howling at the full moon! As
Jamie went off watch he announced we were approaching less than 650nm from Martinique!
This is a significant number for me - I always said that the countdown would be
on for me once we were within 650nm. I think it's because that is the furthest
distance we have sailed in one hit before (Gibraltar to Graciosa in the Canary
Islands) and therefore once we are within that range we are truly within
striking distance! Jamie
went to bed and I sat up watching the rolling swell and the frothy-peaked waves
around me; the bright moon overhead and the orange glow on the skyline to the
east as the day prepared to break. I feel like I need to savour every single
second of this trip now. Every sight and sound. We built up to this trip for so
many years and now it's going to be over before we know it and I just want to
bottle every single moment. At
about 8am Jamie got up and shook out the second reefs in our sails and we sat drinking
tea and toasting the final 650nm! To mark the occasion we finally cut the melon
we have been carefully stowing and have very much been looking forward to. We
knew that once we cut it we would be eating melon until it was all gone and
didn't want our other fruit going bad during that time. We have now reached the
point where we are confident we have enough fruit to get us to shore and we
have thrown so little of our fresh produce away that we need not worry it will
go bad. The quality of the produce we bought at the farmers market on boxing
day has been exceptional and we have eaten so well these last weeks. The select
pieces of meat that we brought in our fridge have also lasted well - we chose
these according to what the longest dates we could find were and the type of
packaging - vacuum sealed had the longest dates and although the plastic
wrapper is unavoidable at least most of the items we chose didn't come with
those awful large plastic trays. (As an aside we have been sorting; compressing
and stowing our rubbish and recycling in a large olive barrel and in bags in
our anchor locker but we will be looking for rubbish and recycling facilities
as a priority when we arrive). One
of the last pieces of pre-packed meat we brought along is a rack of ribs and
Jamie has had them marinading and then slow roasting in the oven for much of
today and they smell amazing!! The
rest of the morning we spent watching ominous rain clouds and distant rainbows
and trying to predict when and where the rain would strike. At about 11am the
wind veered north and began rising steeply again. We were soon engulfed in the
most impressive squall we have experienced yet. The rain hammered down so hard
that it actually flattened the sea around us so that steep blue peaks were
smoothed to soft grey ridges that looked nearly unreal like they had been
painted with an artist's brush. The effect was similar to that created when a
photographer captures fast moving water such as a waterfall and uses a long
exposure to produce that ethereal dream-like candyfloss effect. It was visually
absolutely stunning and I grabbed the little camera I keep in the cockpit and
took a short video but when everything calmed down and I went to play it back
all I have is one rather unremarkable still image. I don't know if it was low
battery or operator error but all I can do is try and describe it for you as
the still image is grossly inadequate! Whilst
I was failing to secure "squall photographer of the year" Jamie was
tending the mainsail tucking it back down and then scrambled back to the cockpit.
We both had our big sailing jackets on over swimwear. As I felt my jacket reach
saturation point I decided it wasn't doing anything anyway and stripped right
off to stand in the downpour for a refreshing wash. That seemed to scare the
squall away and shortly after the wind eased and the rain passed over. As the
sun dried our jackets and deck everything looked fresh and clean and there was
a distinctive smell of teak which I always associate as a "freshly washed
boat" smell. As I
write this that has been our only squall today although we have had a couple of
light showers. We continue to bounce along; or bound along really, making a
healthy speed rarely less than 6kts and frequently over 7. At
2pm we calculated our day's run at a personal best for Hamble Warrior on this
trip; a whopping 157nm! At this rate we will be there before we know it! There
hasn't been much else to report today. Another day with no other vessels in
sight. We wonder if surely as we approach the Windward Islands we will see
other sailing boats but perhaps not. Jamie cleared a couple more flying fish
from the deck this morning but they had been there a little too long to offer
to Meep, we gave him a crabstick as compensation. We have watched a few flying
fish since the sea state increased and it's incredible how far above the water
they fly in these conditions. The other wildlife I have been enjoying are the
sea birds out here. I am looking forward to researching what they are sometime.
They have short cigar-shaped bodies and the boomerang-shaped wings that many
seabirds have. But it's their tail feathers that are so fascinating; they have
just one or two very long very (very) narrow tail feathers that stick directly
out behind them like a wizards wand. They are most unusual looking. I have seen
one or two a day for the last 2 or three days; apparantly solitary creatures,
they don't seem to be as interested in us as we are in them but I suppose they
are more used to seeing nothing but sea for weeks or months on end.. and they
probably aren't writing a blog about us! |