10th November
We were up at
5.30am and lifted our anchor in pitch black darkness shortly after 6 o'clock.
It was very reminiscent of our days sailing in the UK when tides dictated the
best times to sail and we'd often set off for a days passage at a very
antisocial hour. Today our deadline was wanting to take up our berth at
Varaderos Anaga in the north of Tenerife before our contact there left at 5
o'clock.
With just 3kts of
wind we motored along the bottom of Gran Canaria slipping past Puerto Rico and
Mogan as night turned to day.
The wind remained
light with no more than 4kts long after we had got ourselves west of the island
and expected to start picking up the boost of the acceleration zones. We
continued to make way under engine and consoled ourselves that there was no
harm in giving "Perkins" a good run after Jamie had made his repairs
to the water pump. Shortly before 11am 4kts turned to 15kts in the blink of an
eye and; unsure just how much "acceleration" we might get, we put up
our main with a single reef in it and pulled out the full headsail, finally we
were able to turn the engine off and start bounding our way towards Tenerife
which was looming ahead as Gran Canaria began to shrink behind us.
Despite having
fully prepared for what we were expecting to be a very lively sail it was
actually pretty comfortable. As we were sailing close-hauled on a starboard
tack I was able to nest down on the leward side of the cockpit and spent
several comfortable hours snoozing whilst Jamie listened to the T20 cricket
(Eng v NZ) on the radio!
As we approached
the northern end of Tenerife the main port town of Santa Cruz de Tenerife
loomed ahead of us looking nearly as huge and industrial as Las Palmas. We
passed Santa Cruz and headed to the "Darsena Pesquera" (fishing quay)
at Varaderos Anaga where we went onto the small single pontoon that serves the
boat yard where we will be lifted out in a few days time.
There is
absolutely nothing beautiful about this little corner of Tenerife. As we look
back towards Santa Cruz the city has so many thick clouds hanging over it that
you wouldn't even know there are spectacular volcanic mountains which on a
clear day appear to barely contain the city from spreading rampantly off across
the island. Off our stern there are enormous structures of corrugated iron
which house several industrial canning factories which appear to work night and
day canning the catches which arrive by fishing boats of all sizes day and
night. Fishing fleets line the huge concrete quays and off our bow is a
sizeable chemical factory with a dozen branded silos and enormous piles of
white powder which is being loaded by heavy plant onto ships and taken off to
wherever Sodium Hypochlorite (aka Bleach) goes next. To say that the prettiest
part of our view is the boatyard probably gives you a bit of an idea as to how
lacking in 'eye-candy' this place is. However; sometimes there is beauty in
function and as we sat watching mother-natures artistry where the sun hit the
bottom of the clouds on its descent for the night and the skies turned from
pastel to blazing red we felt nothing but gratitude to be here at last and
excitement that; god willing, when we sail out of here again in a couple of
weeks time we will do so with Hamble Warrior ready to face her first ocean
crossing..... so right now nowhere could be more beautiful.