Tricky trades 15:36:82N 43:21:10W
We
are currently hustling along with a brisk 17kts of trade winds in a full set of
working sails and have been making a consistent 6-7kts of speed. The
sun shade has been up for much of the day and had to be secured with extra
chord and pegs as it billowed in the breeze. When the sun shifted to behind our
sails and we no longer needed the shroud we took it down and Jamie joked that
we lost half a knot at once! Meep
is just finished one end of a flying fish and is sniffing around the cockpit
seeking out the rest of it which we have; infact, stowed in the fridge for him
for later. It occurred to me that perhaps not everyone is familiar with these
amazing little creatures so I have attempted to take a picture of one and when
we are able to upload our photos from the trip I will be sure to include it.
They have actual wings - really quite a thing to behold. When you see them
moving it is incredible; especially if you see a whole "shoal" of
them (are they still a "shoal" if they are airborne? We refer to them
as a squadron!) They travel incredibly quickly over huge distances just a few
centimetres from the surface of the water and in arrow-straight lines. I have
yet to see how they end up on our deck but it is not an unusual phenomenon and
just about every sailboat we have read about crossing the Atlantic has had
these critters land in their decks at some point. As we are travelling far too
quickly to troll a line now Jamie decided to keep this morning's fishy offering
from Neptune as a treat for our fearless little midshipman. We
are all recharging today after a bit of an exhausting night. The winds filled
in yesterday afternoon and by evening we were enjoying a lively sail with a
single reef in our mainsail and romping towards our destination at about 6kts.
However, as the sun began to head towards the horizon we were noticing more and
more cloud gathering and by the time the sun set there was thick cloud ahead
and a heavy bruised looking sky above us. We could see to the distance where
the thickest of the cloud was disgorging it's load and we gybed our headsail to
try and adjust our course between the downpours. We
were still making good way and we finished our Friday drinks and stowed away
anything that we didn't want to get wet and ate a simple dinner of pasta and
pesto. By the time we had cleared that away the first spots of rain were
landing and we reluctantly gathered our foul weather gear and assembled it on
deck. We had hoped that slipping our big sailing jackets on would be enough but
as the rain poured down we were soon trussed up in full oilskins and huddled
under the sprayhood. Jamie made hot drinks and as I sat sipping my coffee in so
many layers of fleece and Goretex that I could hardly move I had a fond
flashback a few years to our January sails in the Solent and an overwhelming
nostalgia for the welcoming warmth of the Whyte Hart in Hamble with its open
fire; friendly faces and little bottles of prosecco that I was so partial to.
It was a cosy Sunday ritual after a weekend of bouncing around Southampton
Waters trying desperately to remember all these silly sailing terms and
laughing at Jamie's occasional fanciful references to the idea of crossing an
ocean or sailing around the world. I digress...
it rained through to the early hours of the morning and eventually Jamie packed
me off to my bunk. We were well set; I should get some rest he said; as he says
most nights. I went below and slept deeply for a couple of hours until Jamie
woke me around 3am calling that he was going up on deck to bring down the
mainsail. I scrambled out of bed and up on deck as fast as my legs would carry
me; not stopping to put on shoes or wet weather gear - we have a very strict
rule; neither of us EVER leaves the cockpit at night without waking the other
first. I arrived on deck to find Jamie already at the mast wrestling down the
mainsail. The headsail had already been furled and without the propulsion of
the sails we were flopping about in a big sloppy sea in which Hamble Warrior
swung back and forth like a pendulum in a violent rocking motion. Jamie came
back to the cockpit and looked exhausted. "What happened?" I asked.
"Didn't you hear?" he replied, "couldn't you tell the sails were
slatting and flogging; it sounded like they were tearing themselves to
shreds!" I felt a bit guilty that I had slept so deeply whilst this was
going on and felt a little agrieved that for the 13 previous consecutive nights
I had climbed out of my bunk regularly every night to check that the horrendous
racket from above was just the way sound travels through the boat and
everything was, infact, alright above decks. Of course the first night that
these sounds indicated an unreasonable level of stress on our rig I was below
sleeping peacefully! According
to Jamie's account of the hours between me going to bed and him calling me on
deck the winds had turned fitful and begun backing and veering for a couple of
hours before swinging south (completely contrary to the prevailing conditions for
the last 2 weeks and not at all conducive to our current sail plan). The wind
stayed south for an hour and then died completely by which time Jamie was
exhausted and decided to strike all sail. We had an uncomfortable 15 mins or so
before miraculously the wind filled steadily back in from the East and we
pulled out the headsail and I sent Captain to bed for a good rest. It
was an unusual and exhausting night all round. I stayed on watch for the next
few hours and marvelled how quickly all the cloud had cleared leaving a starry
sky overhead and; even more surprisingly the teak sole of the cockpit was
already bone dry again after all the rain. It seems like the thick black cloud
had somehow been either sucking or blocking the prevailing winds and now it had
cleared we were; once again, trotting along in 16-19kts of wind blowing us,
thankfully, in the right direction once more. Those
fair winds have now lasted all day and as the sun starts to head to the horizon
again and the nearly full moon is already visible high above us; the scattering
of clouds are the "opening sequence of The Simpsons" clouds (I know
and I don't care that there is a proper term for them which I am not using
because EVERYONE knows what "The Simpsons" clouds are) which Jamie
has assured me are typical of the trade winds conditions we can expect about
now. They certainly look nothing like the menacing beasts looming overhead last
night so let's hope it is a more peaceful evening ahead. The
upshot of this rather exciting 24 hours is a daily run of 129 hard-earned
nautical miles and despite everything it feels great to be racking up a decent
days run again at last. It feels like we had a few days off but now we are;
once again, sailing the Atlantic. ..and
as it's now Saturday night it must be time for the indie disco! |