August 1st 0830 GMT

66 02.1N 014 49.1W

After 4 days sitting in the rain, mist and wind in Vopnafjodur the weather finally cleared yesterday and we escaped. In fairness we had had one profitable day when we hired two cars and did a tour over to the Myvatin volcanic region. A dramatic multi coloured landscape with plenty of fumeroles and tortured ancient lava flows. The highlights were a walk around a volcanic ash crater and of course a welcome outdoor dip in a swimming pool with geothermally heated hot tub – it was drizzling at the time and the air temperature was 10C but it didn’t seem to matter. Then it was back to the boat, sitting alongside the lifeboat pontoon -  a desolate place, two ships alongside loading fish meal from the factory and not much else. In four days we saw fewer than 10 people  and 8 cars. The hotel had happy hour each evening and we saw only other two guests in the comfortable lounge which resembled a small Ikea show room. The wind was still in the north when we left and the rain was never far away. We motored 25 nm around to the small fishing harbour at Bakkafjordur and had several distant sightings of breaching whales. The harbour was well protected by boulder piers and we only had 10cm under the keel in the entrance. All the pontoons were full of small fishing boats but the fish dock was free, so after circling uncertainly we went alongside and were greeted by the very laid back hospitable dock master. We left space for fishing boats to unload and shortly after one arrived and we were presented with a couple of fresh haddock which the dock master filleted for us. A fine meal ensued followed by a calm night only disturbed by the occasional fishing boat loading ice and departing around 0100, 0200, 0300 etc Now we’re on our way again to Langanes point, the most easterly point in Iceland noted for it’s strong currents and overfalls - reputed to extend 60 nm off the coast – we’ll pass close inshore and hopefully avoid the worst. All well on board, more news from the next harbour Raufarhofn 50nm down the track.