Up through the Grenadines to Bequia.
Oriole
Sun 23 Dec 2012 17:01
Admiralty Bay, Bequia, SVG
13:00.54N 61:14.26W
Tyrrel Bay was a little sad with rather too may decaying and
unloved yachts sitting on moorings waiting perhaps invain for their
owners. We think the US fiscal cliff may have something to do with
this. We renewed our friendship with Connie and George of Arawak
Divers with whom we will dive when we come south again. Sunday lunch at
the Slipway where local sloops and schooners were built is next to the small
ship/yacht yard, Tyrrel Bay Haulout, which is under new ownership and having a
facelift.
We took the new dinghy into the enormous mangrove lagoon,
the Carenage, on the north side of the bay which is used as a
hurricane anchorage. It is landlocked but for a very narrow entrance and
the shelter in complete and there is room for hundreds of boats along it mile
plus long shoreline. However it is a marine conservation area and
boats are only allowed there to shelter from storm conditions.
To enter the next small island in the Grenadines, you have to
check out of Grenada with Customs and Immigration, sail across the border to
Union Island and check in with the St Vincent Customs and Immigration.
This has sometimes been a real trial, with surly and unhelpful officials.
However, either we are better at getting the best out of them or they have
realised that we are not all potential criminals. Our recent experiences
have been nothing short of a delight.
We spent a day in idyllic weather behind the reef in Clifton
sorting out a 3G and 4G dongle for our computer to allow us internet access
when we are in a mobile phone reception area. This is Chris's domain, I
don't have her patient persistence! Wifi is available in the popular main
harbours, but off the beaten track we have previously had to rely on satellite
communications for emailing. Internet access was then not possible.
However the march of technology over the last ten years has improved our
communication possibilities out of all recognition. Sadly our Red Box
router, which should allow us to use our iPads on line on board, is defying even
its London based guru, and will not work for more than a few minutes at a time
and is very frustrating for the onboard techi.
BBQ chef creating.
We had a brief stop in little Cannouan where the magificent
new J Class yacht Lionheart appeared and anchored close-by.
As we sailed up to Bequia the wind went northerly (our
course) and a line of cloud from horizon to horizon approached from the
east. Conditions became filthy with a lumpy sea and approaching 30 knots
of wind. While pulling down a second reef in the mainsail one of the
battens made a concerted attempt to escape. So the sail was lowered, the
batten resecured, rehoisted, with the skipper leaping around on the
heaving deck to accomplish it. I was beginning to wonder whether I was
getting too old for this game, but NO! ........... there is still life in the
old dog??
As we passed West Cay entering Admiralty Bay there is
now a small freighter hard aground on one of the prettiest stretches of
coast. A few months ago this Dominican boat made a major navigational
error during a minor tropical storm and will end its days here. Local
divers have declared its hull to be wafer thin, but it will not go
quickly.
Another time expired freighter in its slow death throws.
We are now busy organising our Christmas with a group of
other yachties and getting into the spirit. Andrew, with charter guests
aboard Gitana, should arrive here tomorrow so we hope he will be
able to spare us a little of his time. Meanwhile Bequia which was very
quiet when we arrived is filling up with yachts for the celebrations.
Song and dance on the beach in Bequia.
If you are still reading this, we wish you a very happy
Christmas.
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