When you're tired of floating try sinking!
Oriole
Mon 13 Apr 2009 00:08
Tyrrel Bay, Carriacou, Grenada. 12:27.369N 61:29.214W
The island of Carriacou, the northern outpost of Grenada, is
most delightfully sleepy and we had decided to eschew the bright lights of
Bequia during the annual regatta and have a relaxed week of diving
here. Of all the places we have dived in the Caribbean, Carriacou gets our
vote for both the best dive sites and the best dive guides. Conny and
George of Arawak divers are so relaxed over their diving that it is impossible
not to adopt their philosophy and lie back and enjoy it. Their particular
speciality is the very small organisms which live in the corals and sponges but
there are plenty of larger fish and a few sharks to see too. The weather
has been very calm and the water clear and the dive sites, often pretty rough on
the surface, have been delightfully smooth.
The evil
looking Golden Moray lurks in his
hole.
Two Goldlined Sea Goddesses (1 inch long, note crown on tail)
Pederson cleaner shrimp (body 1 inch long)
So on Monday morning after a great weekend in Chatham Bay,
Union Island, we raised the anchor and cleared Customs in Carriacou and
settled ourselves quietly in Tyrrel Bay. Quiet it would be without
the antics of the few bare boat charters, most of whom seem incapable
of either picking up a mooring or dropping an anchor without causing a great
pantomime. This normally occurs during Happy Hour between 5.30 and 6.30.
Around this time an ever hopeful boat boy or rather old man attempts to sell
wine at prices somewhat greater than in the local shops and almost twice the
price we had been paying for the same in Antigua. However
his lobster prices were good, so we indulged yet again but not washed down
with his wine. We were relieved to see when we went diving that there are still
plenty lurking under the rocks where it came from, sadly it is illegal for
scuba divers to catch them. .
On the windward east coast of Carriacou is the village of
Windward (no prizes for originality), where tucked in behind a series of
protecting reefs there is a thriving traditional boat building industry.
Perhaps "industry" is the wrong term - but they do build beautiful wooden
sailing boats for trading, fishing and racing in relaxed Caribbean mode.
We took the bus over there on Saturday during a day off from the diving and
found one boat in the course of construction and another having a major
rebuilding project. Very few yachts get in here behind the reefs and a
quick look at the chart would explain why. The reefs are exposed to the
strong trade winds and the channels unmarked and tortuous. There are a couple of
wrecks high and dry as a warning to imprudent mariners.
Ready for planking
in the Windward
Shipyard. No
tides, so hauling down (careening) to work on the bottom.
One mistake and ....................!
Our week is up so we must push on slowly south to Grenada and
thence to Trinidad from where we are due to fly home in just over four
weeks.
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