23/02/2003

13°58’N 61°01’W 

We rather feel that we have been yo-yoing up and down St. Lucia’s west coast but we have had three appointments to keep in the Rodney Bay Marina at the north end at weekly intervals.  The first was with Calema (last week) and the second was to leave Oriole safely while we attended David and Susie Baggalay’s wedding.  They had chosen Ladera, a wonderful hotel in the south of the island perched high on a ridge overlooking the Anse de Piton. This spectacular bay is framed by the two most notable geographical features of S.t Lucia, the twin conical peaks of Gros and Petit Piton each about 2500 feet rising steeply out of the sea.  All the rooms face the magnificent view and have that side completely open with no wall or window but are just open to the elements which fortuitously come from the other side!! The architecture is so environmentally sensitive that it is virtually invisible from a distance. 

 We felt very privileged to be there and undoubtedly the guests enjoyed the day as much as the happy couple. 

Our third visit to the marina next week will be to meet Lynn and Ian Dewar who will have flown out to join us for a short break from the English winter.  Meanwhile we have been exploring the anchorages, reefs and restaurants to take them to. 

Each island we have visited so far has its own character and reputation although one might be forgiven for thinking that might all be very similar.  Three islands in particular have a reputation for crime.  Dominica’s reputation for this we felt was thoroughly undeserved and the authorities and the locals have worked hard to clean up their act.  We have not yet checked out St. Vincent but we now have a good feel for St. Lucia. In the last few weeks, sadly, several yachts have been broken into at night when their owners have been ashore and there are many stories of unsuspecting yachties being ripped off by the locals.  When we went ashore last night for supper near Soufriere we were collected from Oriole and a watchman provided by the restaurant remained on board.  In Marigot, where we now are, the reputation for thieving from boats while the owners are eating ashore has forced the restaurants to mount patrols.  They are now crying out for trade and already this afternoon we have had visits from two restaurants trying to attract custom.  Last night we had an excellent and cheap meal which included free transport and boat guard.  The restaurant owner was despairing of his fellow countrymen who he says feel that all they have to do is to shake the tourist tree and money will drop out of it.  St. Lucians, he says, are now learning the hard way that this does not work. In the coral conservation areas in  the south of the island anchoring is has very sensibly been prohibited to protect the environment and moorings have been provided for a small fee.  However the local boat boys demand money to help yachts pick up the moorings.  For most yachtsmen this is entirely unnecessary and one is advised to politely refuse the offers of assistance.  We have found this very difficult and have actually paid some of them to keep away and let us choose and pickup our own mooring.   One feels guilty about their relative poverty but in places where these demands are a problem the yachts are staying away.  Nevertheless St. Lucia is a paradise, but to enjoy it one has to maintain ones cool,  work within the system and be very careful about security. Each day there is a long range radio security net operated by yachtsmen for the whole of the Caribbean, during which yachtsmen call up with reports of security problems.  This serves to warn yachtsmen of current problem areas and it has acted as an incentive for security in those areas to be improved.  A few years ago in Grenada stolen property was retrieved from a thief by locals worried about their livelihoods and returned to the owner.  In St. Lucia the locals whose trade is suffering are doing their best to address the problem, but apparently the authorities do not appear to be very cooperative.  However one has to see this scene in a worldwide perspective and very close to home the River Yealm Boatwatch, operated by local yachtsmen, has virtually eliminated theft from yachts.