Romance blossoms in Antigua.
Oriole
Mon 16 Jan 2012 12:14
Falmouth Harbour,
Antigua.
17:01.07N 61:46.28W
Life is never dull in our cruising life - usually great fun,
sometimes downright irritating and the march of time brings changes which are
usually for the worse.
One change that has our seal of approval is the arrival of
Caroline in Andrew's life. Having met in Palma in September, he has
visited her in Cologne and she is now in Antigua for the second time and they
are renting a small cottage on the hill overlooking Famouth Harbour. They
arrived on board for the 10 mile upwind trip in a somewhat lumpy sea to Nonsuch
Bay which has always been one of our favourite anchorages. They
stayed on board for the night in beautiful conditions and we thoroughly
enjoyed their company for too short a period in their action packed
holiday. We stayed on for a few days peace and have now returned to
Falmouth to try to get to the bottom of a technical problem with our satellite
communication system which has hitherto worked faultlessly for 10
years!
Andrew and Caroline's brief Oriole charter.
Sadly the authorities have seen fit to lay upwards of
twenty moorings in this unspoilt area of Nonsuch Bay where the barrier
reef protects the anchorage from the ocean swell coming straight from
Africa. Our favourite spot was right up under the reef where very few
other boats ventured. Now that it has been strewn with moorings there
is less room to anchor and other visiting yachts are encouraged by the presence
of the moorings to venture into the shallower waters close to the reef.
The usual excuse for laying moorings in an area where there is plenty of room
and good holding for anchoring is to protect the seabed from the environmentally
destructive effects of anchors and chains. The possible results of
this policy affects so small an area as to have little or no overall
environmental benefit. The main problem moorings have is the
concern about the adequacy of their maintenance. Several years ago
over sixty moorings were laid in the main anchorage in Nevis. Although the
authorities confirm that they are inspected regularly they have deteriorated to
a dangerous state and yachts have broken adrift. One yachtsman reported
recently that he discarded five moorings before he found one that look even
remotely safe. Elsewhere in Antiguan waters in a similarly
unspoilt favourite anchorage we understand that an EU grant to develop
tourism has been used for laying moorings. Our faceless unaccountable
bureaucrats are at it again. The final insult this week occurred early
this morning when the skipper was forced from his bunk by smoke from a bonfire
which had been lit on the shore just upwind. Unlike Newton Ferrers you just
have to let the locals run their own show, and one can always pull up the anchor
and move!
Really packing them in. The smallest are several million pounds and the
biggest? - well think of a number and double it!
View
from Oriole at
night.
Meanwhile the superyachts have returned en masse to Falmouth
Harbour after their Christmas and New Year charters and owners' trips. If
they don't put the HARBOUR FULL sign up soon there will be more problems of the
sort that occurred yesterday when a large sailing yacht went aground while
attempting to manoeuvre onto the dock. The combined efforts of the
harbour workboat/tug and a fleet of powerful inflatables finally got it off and
it limped into its berth. There are now more superyachts on the marina
docks than there are small yachts at anchor in the rest of the harbour.
John thinks paddle boarding craze is definately a change
for the better!
Sunday afternoons walk and picnic took us along the cliffs
from English Harbour and up the steep ridge to Shirley Heights - not quite a
Munroe but we were sure sweating when we reached the top, and were rewarded
by a swim on Galleon Beach on our return to sea level
Quiet picnic spot on Sunday before the climb.
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