The charter must go on.

Oriole
Sat 27 Jan 2007 22:07
Falmouth Harbour, Antigua.  17:00.9N 61:46.4W
 
The forecast of heavy north westerly swells, which would probably have made our anchorage in the Saintes pretty uncomfortable,  persuaded us to sail up to a lovely anchorage behind Isle Gozier  on the south side of Guadaloupe where the swells would not bother us. 
While en route, John made the discovery of a mysterious pile of what looked like sawdust in the engine compartment.  Closer inspection suggested that this was coming from the engine flywheel housing!  A phone call to Saint Tony Dunn, an engineer of note in Newton Ferrers, well after working hours, confirmed our suspicions that the thrust plate between  flywheel and  gearbox was disintegrating and the "sawdust" was in fact chewed up bits of it.  As this had been a recommended spare part that we had been carrying around for 11 years the problem could have been worse. Betamarine, the engine makers, confirmed that we had the correct parts and having repaired to the safety of the nearby marina in Point a Pitre, John set about removing the gearbox to access the trouble spot.  Once this had been achieved the disintegrating bits fell into his lap.  How the engine had continued to drive the propellor is somewhat of a mystery!  While Fran and Erik toured Guadaloupe in a hire car for the day, John re-assembled the engine which included machining the new plate to fit.  An extremely friendly but impossibly busy engineer gave him the run of his workshop to do it, all for the price of a few drinks. 
 
 
John tightens the last bolt before replacing the gearbox
 
This little detour gave us the ideal opportunity to traverse the Riviere Sallee which separates the two halves of Guadaloupe.  It is more a canal than a river and runs through mangroves with two bridges which lift to allow yachts to pass, but only at 0500 when of course it is still dark.  The channel is winding and shallow but fairly well marked but at times we were stirring up the mud with a few inches beneath the keel.  Miraculously (we are in France) the bridges lifted precisely on time and after a fryup breakfast we continued on our way to Antigua through the reef protected entry of the river, a magnificent wildlife haven.  The winter winds have failed for the moment and we motored across a glassy calm for most of the way only managing to sail for the last few miles. 
 
 
North Guadaloupe. The Caribbean just cannot be so quiet in the winter.
 
It was fortunate that we had escaped the marina by Friday as it was Erik's birthday which we celebrated glutinously chez Oriole on arrival in English Harbour.
 
 
Rum punch to celebrate Erik's birthday.
 
Fran and Erik leave us on Monday for New Zealand and we will be very sorry to see them go.  We have had a great time and they have been great NPCGs (non paying charter guests).   In spite of their non paying status they are taking us for lunch at Harmony Hall on Sunday which, for the non-cogniscenti, is not for the financially faint hearted.
As we entered Falmouth Harbour this morning Mirabella V which had sailed up from Martinique overnight greeted us with two loud blasts on her siren and a wave from the mate.  We had been talking to Andrew during the week while the engine was in bits, and it was his comment to John that "The charter must go on, so get on with it Dad"