Islands which Brush the Clouds
Oriole
Sat 14 Feb 2004 21:19
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The islands which are small enough and high enough
just catch the passing white
puffy tradewind clouds and acquire a white cap which can be seen long before the island hardens into view. In this category are Saba, Statia, St Kitts, Nevis and Monserrat which are in line to the west of the main island chain. The mountains of the larger islands are more permanently enshrouded in cloud. Except for St Kitts and Nevis the anchorages are often uncomfortable in blustery winter conditions and so they will keep for another time. The weather has been funny this winter, very changeable without the everyday fine weather that one expects with occasional short rain squalls and good brisk constant wind. There has often been little wind or too much, and complete overcast not unusual. When we sailed down to St Kitts from St Martin on Sunday it was survival stuff with large grey seas several of which broke into the cockpit and got below necessitating the washboards in the main hatch for the first time ever. St Kitts however was worth it with some lovely anchorages and an old colonial feel ashore. Sugar is still the main crop which we understand is sent to a niche market in the UK. The fields are extensive and almost ready for harvesting. The locals were very friendly and helpful and there are no pestering boatboys as in the more southern ex-British islands. Nevis, next door, has one of the lovliest long palm fringed beaches backed by the mountain. 
Pinney's Beach, Nevis,
and John examines the flotsam and jetsam. St Kitts
beyond.
We had chance meetings with two other boats we knew
and parties ensued.
In order to get back in the line of the main
islands we anticipated being hard on the wind and indeed we were but were
rewarded by a great view of the Montserrat volcano as we sailed down the
windward side. Passage downwind still carries the risk of having your boat
showered with volcanic ash. 
Windward work, great sailing.
We made the 75 miles to Deshaies, Guadaloupe in
daylight but as soon as the
anchor was down it was blowing 30 knots with driving rain. Today it is typical British sunshine and showers, but the temperature is 30C and when the sun comes out everything dries in a trice. We are not really complaining but we would love some really settled weather for our two lots of visitors for the next few weeks. |