Sunshine, showers and almost no wind.
Oriole
Sun 18 Jan 2004 17:03
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It does not do to let your friends think that the
yachting life in the Caribbean is a bed of roses. Our first sail with the
Dewars from Guadaloupe to the Saintes was in a headwind, grey skies, and
either 25 knots and driving rain or no wind at all. However we overtook
all the other boats that were around which is always satisfying and we dropped
anchor in the Saintes in time for Sunday tea. We marched them up to Fort
Napoleon which dominates the anchorage, and the small museum somewhat churlishly
acknowledges the British victory over the French in the Battle of the
Saintes in the American War of Independence.
The Saintes from Fort Napoleon
A lot of good it did us too, with the
Americans and the French now completely out of control. French
eating is perhaps one exception and we have had some great meals ashore in
Martinique, Guadaloupe and the Saintes. The boutiques in the Saintes also
did good business with the new crew. Up the west side of Guadaloupe is a
Jacques Cousteau inspired marine reserve where the snorkling is excellent.
We were able to pick up a mooring there for lunch and snorkling on our way up to
Deshaies the jumping off point for Antigua. A leisurely lunch
followed the aquatic activities by which time a glassy calm had appeared which
normally would not have been a problem. However with our stern only 10
feet from the rocks the engine refused to start. Not a click nor a peep
out of it. Heart in boots, John opened up the engine space to find
the lead to the starter motor had fractured. Fortunately we had a spare
which was fitted within about 30 minutes and we were soon on our way.
Coincidentally the other mooring held a British yacht, Moonlight Lady, which we
had helped out over the radio a few weeks ago with some weather
information. They were only too pleased to stand by us while the repairs
were completed. We made Deshaies in good time for a sundowner and although we
had a good view of the sunset it was too cloudy for a green flash. We saw
one later from English Harbour. The following day we had a brisk walk up
the hill to the Tropical Botanical Gardens which are delightful and beautifully
laid out and have parrots and flamingoes as side attractions. Lunch, we
confess, was another affair gastronomique, and we repaired aboard to snooze off
the effects before a little light snorkling. The heavy weather of a few
weeks ago has taken its toll here and there are two yachts gradually breaking up
on the rocks in this usually very sheltered anchorage. The sail from
Deshaies to English Harbour Antigua is normally hard on the wind with plenty of
it and big seas. We had no more than 10 knots and the sea was almost flat
so Lynn and Ian are now seriously considering shipping their Nelson 38 out
to here. As we sit in English Harbour there is no wind, as it has all
been swallowed up by a big winter storm of 952 mb just to the north of the
islands.
Rain or shine we're going shopping.
It is no doubt heading for the British
Isles where it will produce lots of wind and will hopefully leave us space
for the tradewinds to re-establish the normal lovely Caribbean weather. Lynn and
Ian's return home should guarantee it. This is supposed to be the dry
season, and the rain has been a bit of a drag but when the sun reappears
everything dries in record time and it is soon forgotton with the help
of a little rum punch. You don't even need a raincoat, a birthday
suit will do!
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