12/01/03 Iles des Saintes

Oriole
Sun 12 Jan 2003 21:04

 

We left Deshaies on Monday morning and motored in a flat calm down to Pigeon Island.  We anchored just off the mainland and took the dinghy across to the island, there is no anchoring allowed in this marine national park.  We spent two hours snorkelling in the most wonderful aquarium!  It is a haven for divers so we planned our visit to coincide with the dive boats lunch break so had the place almost to ourselves.  We returned to the boat for a late lunch and although the anchorage was rather rolly decided to spend the night there so that we could return for some more snorkelling.  The trades had been pretty quiet for the last few days but we were expecting a good stiff reach from the bottom end of Guadeloupe across to the Saintes.  This lasted for all of ten minutes then we motored across to a delightful anchorage off a palm fringed beach on Ile Terre de Haut where we spent three days swimming, walking and relaxing. 
 
 
Sadly on the third day the gendarmerie arrived in their launch and ordered all the boats in the anchorage to leave.  A pipe line which we had carefully avoided runs across the bay which is a recognised anchorage, but new and unpublished rules seem to have been produced.   We moved to an equally good anchorage off the small town of Bourg and noticed by next day the first anchorage was full of boats again!  We have met up with Tempo II once again (see diary entry 13/10/02), with three young on board Robert is enjoying their company.  We have shared some ‘Happy Hours’ which have gone on late into the evening.  We climbed to the Napoleonic Fort with a commanding view of the anchorage where there is a small museum which describes the Battle of the Saints but conveniently glosses over the fact that this was a decisive British victory.  The small town of Bourg des Saintes is gradually shedding its bohemian past and is unfortunately becoming rather chic with boutiques and restaurants.  Tomorrow we head back to Guadeloupe to hire a care and explore the island before saying goodbye to Robert.