Prince Rupert Bay,
On Saturday night after a somewhat
but not totally abortive search for the England Scotland match on Chris's iPad
it blew like stink In Deshaies for which it is renowned with katabatic winds
roaring down off the mountains behind the village. With a forecast of
northerly swells the effect of which is also renowned in Deshaies we
set off for the small archipelago of islands - the Saintes - some ten miles
south of Guadeloupe. There were more strong katabatic winds as we
progressed southwards but we were somewhat surprised that at the south-western
tip of the Guadeloupe where there should have been less wind we
continued to be blasted with 30 knots across the deck. Another reef was
hurriedly put into the main and we made good progress in a very lumpy
sea. A friend coming an hour or so behind us motored up the channel,
so did not score many points in our eyes!
No - we are not sinking, but these are
BIG swells en route from Antigua to Guadeloupe.
We did lots of walking in the Saintes
which is all pretty hilly and included climbing to the highest point of
Terre de Haut (300 meters above sealevel), so we are feeling very
virtuous Another sign of the times is that the French have laid moorings
which you have to use at 11 euros per night. If they are all in use you are
allowed to anchor but only in most uncomfortable or inconvenient
positions. We had no trouble getting a mooring but latecomers were unlucky
which was particularly irritating for them. The prime mooring had been
reserved by a yachtie who had gone off for a few days in Dominica leaving an
inflatable kayak on it. John was encouraging people to remove the kayak
and use the mooring as we did not feel that this was in the true spirit of
liberté, égalité et fraternité. But Sarkozy's influence hardly
encourages it anyway. This dog in the manger use of the mooring was condoned by
the Capitainerie with the customary gallic shrug, in spite of vigorous
The view from the top of the Saintes
with Guadeloupe behind.
After another fast an furious sail in
strong winds and big seas we arrived in Prince Rupert Bay, Dominica where we are
always made very welcome by all the boat boys in general but by Martin in
particular who supplies us with bananas from his garden in exchange for mugs of
tea or coffee and ginger biscuits.
On Saturday he and his wife Florian
entertained the girls and a few boys with a cooking demonstation. This
started at the market where all the fresh ingredients were purchased.
The boys who had not attended the demonstration came ashore at lunch time to eat
excellent fire roasted breadfruit, saltfish, cucumber salad and cocoa tea, a
magnificent concoction of various spices, herbs and of course
Martin demonstrates peeling
More walking today and more promised
for tomorrow and tonight the boat boys put on a barbeque with fish, chicken,
salad, rum punch and a disco in their "Events House". Prince Rupert Bay
has become a really entrepreneurial hive of activity in this very poor
island. However, nobody goes hungry, or gets cold, there is plenty of good
water and the food falls off the trees.
A great home-built facility for the
yachts visiting Prince Rupert Bay.