The BVI’s big trick…  five miles from a mangrove Road Town is peace. Corals and sponges and hermit crabs. Cactus stones and hummingbirds hiding in berry-picked trees. Salty bath water and Alicia sure that the old brown coral head 4 metres under Quest isn’t a rock at all. ‘You mean this one?’ I asked, diving down and poking at it. The rock didn’t swim away. ‘Yes, exactly,’ she exclaimed, ‘a huge sting ray!' Is this a sneaky trick or what?