The RMS Rhone

Quest
Jack and Hannah Ormerod and Lucia, Delphine & Fin
Mon 23 Jan 2017 12:32
Position: 18:22.116N 64:32.101W

1867. Late October. Most people considered hurricane season to be over. Only the falling barometer gave any sign it wasn’t so. The Royal Mail Packet Steamship, RMS Rhone was anchored at BVI’s Peter Island. She was a beauty. Two years old and one of the most technologically advanced ships of her time. She’d been built in Millwall Iron Works in London, a combination of steam and sail. Curving, handsome lines. Normally she’d have been in St. Thomas, except there’d been a break-out of yellow fever and the Rhone had sought alternative shelter. The hurricane struck her like a surprised fist. With her anchor down, her Captain, Robert Wooley rode her against the wind with engines at full speed. Then, at 11am, a lull came. Another ship close by, the Conway used this weather window, weighed anchor and headed for Road Harbour in Tortola. She never made it intact. The hurricane re-bounded and the Conway was driven onto the shore. The Rhone tried to do the same. A shackle on her anchor line caught and parted and she lost her anchor and 300 feet of chain. Disaster. Captain Wooley had no choice. He had to take her into open water to give her sea room. She was just rounding the channel when wind and waves blasted her onto Salt Island’s rocks. 

We looked at these rocks yesterday. A still and silent Sunday. We took a marine park buoy. A goat was posing on top of a nearby hill. It was impossible to imagine. She broke in two and sank almost instantly. There had been no time even to launch a rowboat. The Captain was swept overboard and never seen again. The boiler exploded and killed as many people as those who drowned. In desperation, a fireman climbed the fore topsail and amazed to find himself above the water, he held on for 17 hours. 6 men clung to a hammock bin. Only one passenger survived, being washed ashore onto a small island. 124 died. It wasn’t just the Rhone either. It had been a hurricane to end hurricanes. After the wind died down, just 18 houses in Tortola remained. Only 5 of Jamaica’s original 80 houses were left standing. 75 ships lost or damaged. 500 lives lost. The Caribbean islands’ churches, hospitals, plantations, fields, gaols were gone. Nature’s dustpan and brush. More recently, 110 years later, the movie The Deep was filmed on the Rhone. Remember? When Jacqueline Bisset popularised the t-shirt diving movement? Aha, I hear you say! Good times...

The Cap and Lu went down first. Delphine and I held onto Quest’s ladder, our faces in the water. The Rhone appeared to our starboard side, a ghost of wreckage, dark blue. Delph asked, ‘Did a lot of people die?’  ‘Yeah, I think so,’ I said. ‘Shall we go back up?’ she said. We looked at each other. ‘Yeah.’ Meanwhile, the Cap and Lu had the best time. They had two dives. ‘What was it like?’ I asked, taking their weights from the water. They grinned a mix of nitrogen bubbles and adventure. ‘Plenty of life down there.’  

Love from Quest and her crew xx