Turtle Thoughts

Quest
Jack and Hannah Ormerod and Lucia, Delphine & Fin
Wed 21 Dec 2016 14:22
We’re on a mooring buoy in Falmouth Bay a couple hundred metres or so from Nelson’s modern fleet. At night, these beasts have glowing masts and underwater lights like they’re scared of the dark. Just beyond is the slipway bar. You tie your dinghy here up to come ashore. It’s also a super yacht crew hang out spot. We see the crew here during the day, wearing immaculate white shirts and beige cargo shorts, drinking coffee and staring at screens. We hear they spend most of their time waiting. Waiting for owners to come, waiting to be given instruction to sail, waiting for time to go home. Mental note: if you ever write a CV to work on a super yacht, put ‘patient’ in your list of necessary qualities. Still, tonight a band is playing at the slipway bar. Drums are banging, lights are flashing and people are shouting. Everyone’s letting their hair down from wearing those white shirts and beige cargo shorts. Or maybe they have to still wear them.... Wouldn’t be surprising considering all those Howard Hughes types. We like to imagine the super yacht owner’s face when he realises his boat isn’t as big as the one next to him…

It’s true that Antigua is beautiful. Really Caribbean gorgeous. Cacti towers along its white beaches and turtles lurk just under the water’s surface like large brown tables. Often they pop up their large-eyed periscopes and grab your gaze. Curious neighbours, even chatty in that sneak-up-on-you but don’t-say-anything-kind-of-way. And yet, since being in this paradise we find ourselves thinking back to Grenada. In Grenada, wild beaches invariably have someone hanging out with a cutlass and cooking an urchin stew. A wild beach in Antigua seems always to have have a hotel nearby. Maybe the hotel is the better, safer-feeling option? Maybe. For sure after spending the hurricane season in Grenada, we’ve noticed that Antigua’s capital, St John’s sells more clothes with cotton, actual swimming costumes, shoes you’d want to buy and is better and longer-time honed for the cruise ship audience. And Grenada? The typical Grenadian, irreverently stoic, curiously disinterested, might flick their wrist at you. One word. ‘Spices.’ Almost every tree, every bush, every plant in their hyperdrive soil is put to use. Grenada may be part of the Caribbean chain but she’s set apart and when you’re there, it seems as clear as spring water where her true wealth lies. On both islands you smell the ripeness of open sewers and drains. Grenada though, doesn’t have so many super yachts tucked up against them. Is this a good thing? The march of progress… Hmmm. The turtles might have an opinion. But they’re not telling. 

Love from Quest and her crew xx