056:05.444 N
005:34.304 W

Crinan

North of here is the entrance to the notorious Corryvreckan, so we spent some time this morning working out how to tiptoe around it as we head towards Oban. 

The Pilot Books says;
“The Gulf of Corryvreckan is a narrow, highly turbulent strait between the islands of Jura and Scarba, famous for hosting the third-largest whirlpool in the world. Water speeds up to 8.5 knots colliding with two major underwater obstructions: a massive deep hole and a pyramid-shaped basalt pinnacle. This combination creates massive standing waves and a roaring, swirling maelstrom. In peak conditions, waves can exceed 30 ft (9 m) high, and the roar of the water can be heard up to 10 miles away.”

It is springs today so we really didn’t want to get near the place; we think we found a route north through the Sound of Luing for a few day’s time.

After a walk ashore, where even in the rain this place is beautiful, we weighed anchor and moved to the next bay. After a few miles we heard a roar, we couldn’t quite place it, was it wind, rain or a distant engine? After checking the chart, we realised we were only 5 miles from the Corryvreckan so that roar was coming from there. Daunting and a not a little shocking to consider the power within that area of water, we felt grateful to be the far side of the Sound with no plans to enter.

So to Crinan. Both Bol and I have been here before on separate occasions, I was with the OYC 30 years ago when I sampled my first oysters. Bol was on my brother Hamish’s boat Seal who had just crossed the Atlantic; they’d come from Belize via The Bahamas, Greenland, to Scotland/Crinan/Largs (before heading to Yarmouth IOW) ie many months at sea. Their kids aged 3 & 5 found a patch of lawn outside the Crinan Hotel and ran around it all evening. Afterwards they told their dad Crinan was the ‘best place in the world’. The photo below of the lock was taken to remind Lenny and AJ of their best evening ever. Admittedly, Crinan is a delightful spot.

We have been watching the boat Lutetia owned by RSYC member Patrick Farrell and his friend Hugh on the AIS since we last saw them in Holyhead. Today we could see them coming towards the end of the Crinan Canal so we were highly amused to position ourselves at the final lock, in time to catch their lines. Hugh’s double/triple take on seeing us there was memorable. We celebrated meeting up with a drink at the hotel, and have just returned from a lovely supper on board Lutetia. Happy times.

Just ahead of Lutetia through the lock was the Sadler 26 Scuima (mentioned in our 22 May entry). We also caught their lines today and it was lovely to see them again. We’ve since learnt more about the boat which is skippered by Nestor Montagu who is sailing around the UK. When he achieves this, he’ll be the youngest skipper to do this trip at the age of 19. He’s a brilliant youtuber and his sail is a fund raiser, so inspiring.

Our second full moon of our trip is rising somewhere behind the clouds, this photo was taken two nights ago in Gigha. Neither of us can put our finger on why, but this Crinan anchorage is just absolutely gorgeous, we are surrounded by hills covered by trees dotted with purple rhododendron bushes, it just feels really comfortable and safe. The sound of hooting owls is carried across the flat water, and we are completely still at anchor.

Apparently it’s June tomorrow….