053:19.274 N
004:38.177 W

Holyhead

We have been thinking about passing through the Bardsey Sound for months, planning it for weeks, looking at it for days, and today we woke with much anticipation of the potential 12 knot sleighride with rocks passing close by on both sides; will it be a ‘pussy cat’ or will it be a ‘washing machine’?

Well ….. we followed the timing exactly according to the Reeds Almanac and it turned out to be the biggest anticlimax!

We left the anchorage on time to join the much-anticipated channel but found ourselves fighting a foul tide. TC was reduced to crawling pace over the ground despite the engine going flat out, and this continued for 45 minutes. Where were the 12 knots? What had we done wrong? We were so perplexed and hugely disappointed!

We calculated once we were out of Bardsey Sound we’d be heading north against a south going Irish Sea tide, and this duly played out for 2 more hours, more plodding ~ much of yesterday was still in sight of Bardsey Island which made such a lonely sight. Got to wonder at the souls who lived on this place in the 6^th Century, how did they survive, what did they eat, how did they stay warm?

Reward finally came our way when the tide turned in our favour and our speed went up to 7, 8, then 9, 10 and even 11 knots on occasions. The bulk of the journey was glorious. The sun shone, we had wind on our back and TC flew. We took it in turns to sit on the bow and soak it all up, a few gannets, guillemots and gulls joined us but not another boat in sight.

As we closed in on our landfall, a brief shower eclipsed Holy Island altogether. When the sun came out it spotlit the Holyhead lighthouse, a most welcome sight.

Our 11 knot delirium came to an abrupt halt when we realised we had to gybe swiftly before we were swept past to the Isle of Man!  So a 90° turn, engine back on and TC fought a 7 knot tide towards Holyhead breakwater.  Oh for some local knowledge.

As we rounded 1.5 mile long Victorian the breakwater a stunning sunset bade us goodnight. We were greeted by a friendly Holyhead Sailing Club launch who pointed us towards one of their moorings which we tied up to just as dusk fell, so grateful to have made it in before dark.

What followed was that magic moment, sitting below, mulling over what’s just been achieved with a nice glass of wine. 

We are now here for a few days and we’ll share our next plans tomorrow.