Fai Tira Blog Monday 26th July

Fai Tira heading for Vanuatu 17:57.87S 171:43.77W

This blog started just as we’d left our final stop in Fiji. It was mid afternoon, the sky  blue the weather warm and the seas quite brisk. The main and genoa were both reefed in and the boat making about 7 ½ knots in a 20-25 knot s of South Easterly wind. The reef was now well behind, leaving us with a straight trip to our next destination, Vanuatu.

Many other BWR boats left at around the same time and we we’re surrounded by sails, although I have to say most were overtaking.

It seems such a long time ago that we arrived in Musket Cove, that I should apologise for the gap between blogs. We thought that this one had been despatched during the journey across. We now know that it didn't happen.... Sorry.

The trip across to Musket Cove took place at what seemed breakneck pace. It was mostly dictated by Pete and Judy’s desire to reach the resort in time for them to take up residence in their beachside Villa for the beginning of their week of luxury. Although I have to say that the not insignificant incentive of being able to see the second All Black v Springboks encounter had the effect of Jeremy and I also counting down the miles. The match kicked off at 7.30 pm on Saturday and resorts are almost bound to have televisions?.......    They did!!!

The journey in all took us 3 full days with two nights spent on anchor in very remote, tranquil and mostly uninhabited locations (the briefings had recommended no night sailing in these waters). However, our tight schedule of 50-55 mile average in daylight hours meant that we tended to arrive late and leave early, so no time for exploring. It also meant that a 5 ½ knot, minimum required speed had to be maintained requiring use of the engine in circumstances where sails would have been more than adequate. Nevertheless, the sail across the open stretch of sea known as Bligh Water, was as good as anything that we could have hoped for. In about 15-20 knots of easterly wind the boat skipped along at around 6 ½. knots.

The final coral passage went smoothly. By now our confidence in the navionics chart was fairly robust, so once located within the confines of the reef, and with the new tiller pilot working impeccably, our final run in from the overnight stop was just a matter of following the blue line on the screen, and occasionally tweaking the direction by pressing the right buttons to avoid the hard lumpy bits that were always lurking not far below the surface to either side.

Pete’s planning worked really well and our final approach put us exactly where we should have been.

However, the entrance to Musket Cove is nothing if not complex, and with the warning beacons -marking the channel - turning out to be just buoys or not there at all, a slow, wary and perhaps cautious approach was somewhat inevitable. However, it did have the effect that the final passage between the interlocking reefs protecting the marina entrance were safely and smoothly negotiated, and we slipped into the very narrow and shallow entrance, just ahead of the Malolo Ferry cat., moving aside to let it pass.

Constant communication with Sophie in the marina office ensured we knew which part of the pontoon to aim for. So in benign, calm and warm conditions, we drifted in, identified our spot and parked quite effortlessly with the bowsprit hovering conveniently above the pontoon.

Initial impressions again I suppose?  Well for me the response was mixed. We’d already been told that this was a resort environment, that’s just what it was and a big one too, complete with beachside accommodation, golf course and electric buggies, but it would be unfair and dismissive to leave it just at that.

Resorts don’t do that much for me, but straight away my preconceptions were somewhat diluted. They hadn’t taken into account the impact of the friendly culture and the human touch that was always in evidence, and the effect that they had of just knocking off enough of slick polish and associated clinicalness to reveal a few ragged edges, that allowed some character to emerge and establish a certain individuality that made it quite a fun place to be. Even the” kiss me quick” bit  in Plantation Island Resort, to where Jeremy and I drifted one evening whilst trying to locate a late meal and came across what looked like the local version of bingo, proved to provide a source of entertainment.

The rugby was a bonus, turning out to be another great match. We watched it together with loads of people all sat round a big screen at the resort hotel. Fairly subdued bunch this lot though, considering the Southern Hemisphere passion for rugby. Sometimes it was difficult to work out just what team was being supported. It took an Englishman, well as it turned out part South African, Jeremy to show them how to get excited. His patriotism even extended to standing for the national anthem attired in his conveniently acquired rugby shirt from our day out in Nadi.... See we’re still exporting colonial values....Well some anyway!!!

With Pete and Judy were, by now, well installed in their luxurious accommodation, both Jeremy and I took stock of the limited range of organised events, that seemed to be mainly aimed at eating and drinking ceremonies (hardly surprising considering a two hour walk takes you right round the whole island)........ And after all one beachside villa looks pretty much like the next!!!!!!

                                                                            Resort Villas at Musket Cove

If beaches are what you want, they don't come much better than this!!         Fai Tira relaxing!!

There was an activities day organised for Wednesday that included a golf tournament and canoe racing in the afternoon.(Pete entered partnered with Pete off Peregrina, both doing all they could to enhance their reputations, by winning)

Plenty of opportunities for snorkelling, after all the place is surrounded by coral reefs.

There was a regular catamaran ferry into Viti Levu and a chance to visit the nearby town of Nandi, and a gallery sign high up on a hill had revealed the possibility of a local art display, although finding it might be a challenge. So a fair bit to occupy us then. And never far from our conscious thoughts was the knowledge that two significant boat repairs had to be incorporated. The furling foil separation and the subsequent damage it had caused to the genoa.

A conversation between Sophie, the marina manageress, and Pete, had the genoa booked on the next available ferry to Marshalls sail loft at Denarau. With the promise of completion on Thursday, it presented a ready-made opportunity for Jeremy and I to inspect the repairs and incorporate our planned visit to Nadi.

The golf tournament turned out to be well supported. It was organised by Stuart off Gaultine and took part on a 9 hole flat course overlooking the sea (be hard not on an island the size of a postage stamp). Stewart selected the appropriate pairs, and off we went in scorching weather with scoring in accordance with the Stapleford format. Almost sounds like I know what I’m talking about at this stage, but within about 50 feet of the first tee (that was about as far as I hit the ball) the truth was revealed and my team finished last.

                   Before and after!!!     If the ball disappears down one of these crab houses, then say goodbye to it!!!

 All light hearted stuff though and thoroughly enjoyable!!!. It was rounded off by Jeremy and myself indulging in the odd game or two of pool in the next resort, on tables with the curliest surfaces I’ve seen, which were manufactured by a company called Essex Engineering... Small world!!!

The ferry ride to the main island was fun, a journey that would have taken a big chunk of the day on Fai Tira, was over in 50 minutes.

The people at the sail loft were obliging and friendly and a request for extra stitching meet with a positive response with the cheerful and delightful Anne making arrangements to despatch it to the ferry terminal later in the day on our return from the town.

Even better than the ferry trip was the bus ride we decided we’d take to Nandi. It was on one of those same windowless, bicycle bell ringing monster that we were introduced to on Savu Savu. It visited a whole host of villages on the way, trundling along dirt tracks just wide enough to accommodate its bulk and sometimes arriving at a dead end before reversing out. A journey that would have taken 20 minutes in a taxi ended up taking best part of an hour......Great fun!!!

Not very pretty was the description of the town in the books, and they were right. It was basically one long street I suppose a bit like a bigger, and more modern version of Savu Savu. However, un-pretty doesn’t mean uninteresting and it soon became obvious that this place could be fun, just had to look in the right places!!

How about this for contrasts?  The great and bustling Main Street of Nadi, and the sterile environment of the ferry stop at Denarau Marina!!!

Right from the beginning, when both J and myself had our glasses adjusted free of charge at the obliging optometrist, then strolling along Main Street to a tourist information booth and our encounter with the lovely Carol and her smiling eyes who directed us to her favourite  local cafe, where we had fantastic flavoured spiced snacks at a brilliant price. She also directed us to the bargain clothes shops that turned out to be second hand stores. Quite an eye opener and both J and I came away with purchases smugly feeling like we’d just beaten the system.

The friendly smiling Carol. Perhaps it was because she knew just where her directions would take us!!!!

The town was noisy, busy, colourful and scruffy and full of characters, most very friendly, but some quite dubious. We visited the local craft market where Jeremy honed his bargaining skills, the largest and most spectacular Hindu temple in Fiji, where we were greeted and shown around by a priest, finally visiting the risky Nadi Club, where we ended up drinking beer with the locals.

                 The beautifully colourful and ornate columns and facade of the temple.

Not quite the dodgy drinking establishment that we were led to believe!!

By 6.30pm we were back in Musket Cove. The ferry was much busier on the return, but still people wanted to speak to us, not least the captain. I was tempted to ask for a drive, but thought better of it, thinking that he might just be aware of my newly acquired reputation for coral parking!!!!

We found the gallery and spent a fascinating period in the company of the delightful, talented and feisty French lady owner with the nickname of George and her lovely assistant Ima; learning much about the island, her background, and the adventures that brought her here 20 years ago. So much determination and will in such a petite bundle......Thanks George, we enjoyed your company.

                          Thanks to  Mme. George and Ima for the lively, entertaining and colourful interlude.

The repairs, in all truth, were delayed longer than was wise. And eventually involved me spending long periods dangling from a piece of string, from the top of the mast, over a span of two days in uncomfortably hot conditions, while I made the most of Pete Durrance’s parting gift of drills and taps in order to form and thread new securing holes where the joint had parted. Not a very comfortable or enjoyable exercise, but at least it was in the relative calm of the marina and not in the middle of the Pacific!!!

The last few days saw a flurry of activity, culminating with us hoisting the genoa into position

Our thanks and goodbyes to La, Lavenia and the lovely Vasiti, the staff at the four and a half dollar bar......What fantastic memories for names, it all made us feel so important!

The next day was a time for farewells. Bill and Sue were leaving the rally and heading for their long-term destination of New Zealand. It was an emotional parting and every one of the BWR crews will miss them.

Good luck you two

So here we are back at the beginning and just coming up to our second night at sea. It’s been a rocky ride so far, big seas, strong winds and high speeds that resulted in us covering, 170 miles in the last 24 hours.

I get the feeling that this journey may be a quick one!!!!

Bye from us all on Fai Tira,

Peter, John and Jeremy