Fai Tira in Bali
Fai Tira blog
Saturday 6th November 2010 Fai
Tira in Bali We
spent a two-night excursion on Fai Tira to the island of Lembongan to get away
from the marina, which has little to offer and is very dirty. What a
contrast. This small Island is invaded by tourist boats from Bali each
day but when they leave at 4.00pm the island resumes its peaceful self. What
a contrast to the marina. John
and myself went for a bike ride around the island whilst Jeremy went for a
walking tour. Temples
are everywhere on the island. They
cover their graves with umbrellas. The
main industry on the island is seaweed gathering. They wade out into the
sea to harvest the weed and lay it out to dry before it is bagged up and sent
off, for the production of cosmetics and food for the Chinese and Japanese
markets. Here
are couple of the local women preparing strings which we think the seaweed
attaches itself to. Unfortunately they spoke little English and we speak no
Indonesian. A
local village that produces only seaweed. This
bridge links two of the islands – Lembongan and tiny Ceningan. It
was a very rickety suspension bridge with lots of the wooden planks either
broken or missing. We
rode over it just to see how scary it was. The locals didn’t worry,
they zoomed across at great speed on their motorbikes. We
arrived back at the beach in time for a beer or two before the sun went down. We
sat watching the local boys performing daredevil jumps into the sea from the
top of a tour boat. The floats on the outriggers of this type of boat are
big pieces of bamboo. It’s
a hard life out here in Bali. The
next morning we headed back to Bali Marina after trying to untangle our anchor
chain from the coral. The volcano on Bali popped out from the clouds for
the first time. The
evening saw us heading off to a Hindu temple called Ulu Watu where, we’d been
told, we would see a great sunset, a traditional Kecak dance show and lots of
monkeys, They weren’t wrong. Don’t
get tooooo close to me. Jeremy had his expensive rimless prescription
glasses stolen by one of these animals. Luckily the culprit was enticed
to give them up in exchange for a banana but not until he/she had pulled the
plastic coating off one of the arms. The
culprit hanging his head in shame. The
temple is located in a spectacular setting on the top of a two hundred foot
cliff. We had to wear sarongs to enter the temple precincts,
incidentally. The
show started with fifty men singing a Kecak song which carried on throughout
the performance. It
basically went kecakecakecakecakeck for an hour.
The
story is complicated and we only got a taster, which also lasted for about an
hour. The
girls were so precise with their hand and body movements. They were also
very pretty. The
next day we employed the services of Romano who drove us on a tour of Bali in
his friend Endro’s car. (The latter had driven us to the temple the
previous evening). We headed for a town called Ubud. This is the
artisan area of Bali where different craft skills are assembled into different
areas: e.g. Stonemasons, Woodcarvers, Weavers, Artists, and Silversmiths,
etc. This makes it handy for looking around at your chosen
craft(s)! The
first stop was a Batik printing works. Next
we visited a silversmith factory and saw how they produced hundreds of pieces
of very intricate jewellery. Each person was paid by the number of items
they completed each day. We were then invited to buy at the factory
shop. The quality of the work was outstanding. Next
we drove to the glass manufacturing area. I was fascinated by the
multitude of different colours and shapes as you can see below. We
then moved onto the woodcarving area. The
skills of the woodcarvers were amazing. The piece above had taken months
to complete and was in relief (3D). If
I had the money and the space to put it, this is the piece I would have
purchased. A humpback whale with calf. We
saw this fantastic example of British engineering: an Austin A50, a throw back
from when England supplied the world with cars. Jeremy also spotted a
near-mint condition Morris Minor tucked away in a roadside woodcarving yard. Now
the only cars you see in Indonesia are Japanese. After
all visiting all of the workshops and retail outlets we headed off to the Swan
Inn. This was located right in the middle of Ubud and was fantastic. The
accommodation consisted of bungalows with hot and cold showers. We even
got an excellent breakfast.
On
arrival we found that we weren’t the only BWR people staying there.
The Tippys had been there for a few days. We
chilled out with a beer or two before we headed off for dinner. The
next morning gave us time to explore the town and even have a swim in the
pool. Ubud
has a massive market. John and David, our American friend off Moonshadow, spent
most of the morning exploring it. David even managed to buy a Rolex
(Bolex!) watch. Romano
turned up at 11.00am and we headed off to Mt Batur, a volcano. The trip
up there was lovely and it was great to get away from the hustle and bustle of
the sprawl that Bali seems to have developed into. We
stopped at a tiered paddy field which was beautiful. Unfortunately this
was the first place we encountered the hard sell locals who would not leave you
alone. This was to shape our day, each time we stepped out of the car we
were hassled to buy stuff. We
sat in a lovely restaurant on the rim of the volcano’s crater. The views were
stunning, but it reminded us of the plight of the people on Java who were
having to deal with yet another eruption. People are living within half a
mile of this active volcano; if or when it decides to blow they will stand
little or no chance of survival. After
lunch we headed off to Besakih the largest temple on Bali. It is massive
and unfortunately plagued by vendors and “guides”. At least
there were no monkeys. It’s situated on the slopes of Gunung Agung,
the holiest and highest mountain on the island, also volcanic we think. John
and I were taught how to pray for good luck. I think it worked because
Judy rang me within minutes to give me some good news. The
spectacle of this was yet again spoilt by the fact that you were asked for
money everywhere we went. Here
is one of the prettier vendors trying to sell yet more postcards. After
this we were cultured out. John and Jeremy headed back to the Swan Inn
while David and myself headed for Edith’s 60th birthday party. Here
are a selection of photos from the party held at Carol and Pete’s house
here in Bali. Young
and not-so-olds had a great time as you can see. The
party finished about 5.00am and was a great success and as you can see we all
spent too much time drinking punch in the swimming pool. The wrinkled
hands being the proof. Yesterday
saw us visiting a stonemason which was fascinating. He exports his wares
all over the world. What
craftsmanship. This is the boss, I Made Mardawa, who speaks remarkably
good English, thanks to watching lots of movies and talking to Anglophones. We
have had lots of experiences here in Bali, too many to mention, but I hope this
blog will give you a taste of what we have encountered. Thousands
of these offerings are placed everywhere every day. Pete,
John and Jeremy. We
leave Bali today heading for Singapore. |