Fai Tira Blog 16.00 UTC  Tuesday 29th December

Fai Tira still in Antigua .   17:00.52N 61:45.90W

Vidio of Fai Tira heading for Barbuda. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=np17P0rALCw

I am now becoming aware that the more familiar I become with Antigua, its’ culture, the people, its’ unashamed identity that has the effect of producing an almost universal undiluted beauty, the greater my desire to feast my senses.

Nelsons’ Dockyard is steeped in history. It’s preserved and maintained impeccably, whilst at the same time presented very tastefully, but it is, after all,  still just another marina  and because of that  it’s always going to struggle to conceal its’ sterility for any prolonged period, and we’ve been here, now, for quite a while. Any implied criticism is purely unintentional,

It’s just that on the other side of the securely manned barrier and within walking distance, lurks the real Caribbean. Ok, I know that it wouldn’t exist, or perhaps be the same, without the spending power of the visiting yachts, but  here, at least, the exploitation of the surrounding wealth is pursued with a lack of pretention that almost  seems to suggest a certain contempt for its’ importance.

So, as the saying goes, we needed to get out a bit more!!!

It had always been the case that the serous exploring would wait until the arrival of our wives and although the boating stuff hasn’t entirely been ignored, it’s probably safe to say, it’s taken a temporary back seat while our minds contemplated Shirley heights, costal walks and seeking out the more inaccessible areas by use of a hire car.

For some time now we’ve nestled under the gaze of the, now, innocuous and unexciting looking walls, high above, that mark out the old look out and gun emplacement, known as Shirley heights. This area was fortified in the late eighteenth century and named after the then governor of the Windward Islands, General Shirley, in order to act as added protection for the British naval fleet undergoing repairs in the dockyard far below

It’s now become a popular meeting and picnic venue for both locals and visitors alike with, what’s left of, the old colonial buildings nicely converted to provide a bar.

The charge for entry is nominal and once inside, with what appears to be half of the visiting and resident population of the island, you’re immediately blown away at the realisation that now, looking down, it’s so much more spectacular than it was when looking up. The far reaching views of the area are breathtakingly beautiful and as the light fades they continually change. The sunset provides a lovely climax, with everyone trying to ensure a favourable position for the show, but it didn’t stop there. As the colours disappeared, the illuminations started. It may be that they were just lights from the street, marinas, boats, houses and restaurants, but combined and in this setting, the effect was magical.

A bunch of us Ralliers, had travelled as a group, by taxi, determined to have a good time. We weren’t disappointed!.

Apart from the impact of the views, our senses were also immediately bombarded by the overpowering sound of a steel band, whose diverse repertoire ranged from the William Tell overture to Dancing Queen. And all the time the aroma of food, cooked Caribbean style, hung in the air. The whole culture just kept scrabbling for your attention.

As I stood watching the musicians and listening to the music, my attention was drawn to an attractive lady caught up in the rhythm.

As her, obviously not quite so enthralled, husband decided to walk away, she kept on swaying. Then, from within the crowd, emerged the gliding figure of a well built black guy. His hips and feet moving in perfect time with the music, an outstretched arm slid round her waist and he pulled her towards him. His, subtly, smiling face glanced into her eyes and then looked away. She just seemed to melt as they danced. She tossed her head back  and with eyes looking skywards,  stretched her arms and ran her fingers through her hair........ This is the Caribbean, that was sooo, smooth and,,,,, I have to take up dancing lessons.!!!! 

Eventually the band changed. The rhythm became reggae and we bopped the rest of the night away

The next day, Pete, Judy and Horace took the bus to St Johns, so Dee and I had decided on a little bit of exploration on foot, but before then there was still plenty of time for relaxation. That meant a leisurely breakfast at the local cafe, and for me a chance to sit and indulge in the brilliant writings of Humphrey Lyttelton in his auto biography.

We’ve had some surreal moments on this trip, but none more so than what happened next. As I sat immersed, I was alerted by a male voice calling the name of our boat. Nothing too unusual about that, except that when I responded, the voice, obviously Scots, said that he had helped to build Fai Tira.

The voice belonged to John Quin. With him were his delightful wife Janet and lovely daughter Jenny. They just had to be invited on board for a beer. The following two hours just flew by as John recounted his association with Bill Morgan, the first real sailing owner of the boat, confirming much of what we already knew whilst at the same time filling in some of the gaps and expanding the history.

John and Janet, who were being visited by their daughter, told us that they made the decision to go sailing for six months. That was ten years ago and they’re still going, so I guess they must be liking it. How bizarre then for us to have travelled 5000 miles and meet up with these guys here. So pleased that we did though and thanks to them, for taking the time to stop and talk. We must hook up again sometime soon.

The rest of the afternoon saw Dee and I complete the lovely and hilly costal walk to Pigeon Bay.

Pete turned up early, with the car, the following day ( More air conditioned bliss!!) and chauffeured us all round the Island for the rest of the day. The most important thing was, to provide Dee, Judy and Horace with a better insight to Antiguan life. I’m sure that we did. Although not before a trip down, the fabulous, Fig Tree Drive , to the Rain Forest, so that Pete and I could indulge in the exhilarating tree top zip ride.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fc6-6pVXycI  Video of the Zip line.

A dip in the sea, some food, a couple of rum punches and great sunset later, saw us travelling back in the dark.

Approaching one of the many villages that seemed to wake up more at night, the headlights picked out a group of people in the middle of the road.

It was an improvised percussion band beating out an infectious rhythm. House doors were opened, people sat on verandas and spectators stood on the road side and hung out of windows. This lot weren’t going to move for any one.

Think I might have said this before.........Welcome to the Caribbean!!!

HAPPY NEW YEAR from Pete, Judy, Horace, John and Dee.

To our family & friends - Thank you for being there.

Health, Wealth, Peace & Happiness for 2010.