Fai Tira Blog Monday 24rd May

Fai Tira in Huahine 16:48.73S 150:59.45W

As Pete’s previous picture blog indicated, we’d split up a bit and so tended to go in separate directions for the next few days. However I’m not sure that a cycle ride round the Island qualifies for Pete’s description of “adventure”, more like two old blokes just enjoying a leisurely ride on bikes.

The first thing that happened, on our first full day, was Pete disappearing off for a dive early morning with a number of guys from the other boats. J and I took advantage to have a relaxed morning just tidying and doing general stuff, before setting off in the dinghy in the direction of a small supermarket. Bread was the pressing need, but internet connection and Ice cream were almost as important. So with the tender beached and secured to a convenient stone, off we went. J is good company and his command of French very impressive and useful, even so, it’s interesting just how many of the locals enjoy the chance to practice their English; and before long we found ourselves in conversation with a friendly old guy. He’d seen us moor up and strolled across. I think that the pair of us must have metaphorical Union Jacks stamped on our foreheads. Straight away he made the correct identification and immediately greeted us in English, then shortly proceeded to tell us of his background and how it was that he and his son had such a good grasp of the language.

We came away with fresh baguettes, the directions to the next village where we might be able to buy internet connection and... Oh yes, the almost ubiquitous ice cream.  Chocolate ‘Magnums’ in the wilds of French Polynesia, who’d have thought...?!

The estimates of the distance to the village varied from about 4 to 6 kilometres, but we decided to walk it anyway. It wasn’t long before it became obvious that motorised wheels rule the roads and with no pavement as a barrier it meant that whether on foot or bicycle, you’re always at risk.

The village turned out to be just a collection of shops. We didn’t find what we were looking for, but did enjoy a very agreeable ride in the company of an attractive young lady who offered us a lift in her pick up and drove us to the village. J chatted away to her in French, whilst all that I could do was listen in silent envy......Must learn another language!!!

It was well into the afternoon by the time we returned to Fai Tira, but still time to indulge in a bit of snorkelling. A radio call to Hans on Natibou for advice of where to go, also located Pete and we ventured to the reef together for what turned out to be a fairly disappointing swim.

There were plans afoot for a mass scooter tour of the Island on Tuesday. The thought did have some appeal, but the idea of pedal power had a stronger pull. So J and I decided that the prospect of a more leisurely, relaxed and self-directed exploration should take precedence.

So that was it then:  while a group of BWR crews were going off to form a potential terrorising convoy, J and I chose the more sedate option. As it happens the forecast predicted a wet day and subsequent early urgent radio communications cancelled the scooter ride, re-organising it for Thursday, a day predicted to be half decent.

Not sure if it was a more adventurous spirit, or just the belief that on bikes we wouldn’t get quite so wet, but anyhow J and I decided to go ahead. In the event we had a dry fantastic ride and the re-organised scooter convoy had a Thursday of tropical downpours and returned looking like drowned rats..... Goes to show, you just can’t trust a bunch of sailors to read a weather forecast accurately!!!!

Pete’s bike, the one that J was riding, was assembled and almost ready to go. Mine, on the other hand, was still stored in the bag where it had been since the Galapagos. Surprisingly its emergence didn’t reveal a coating of rust and after a few small tweaks it was up and running.

It felt good to be back in the saddle again, even though the prospect of 60 kilometres on unknown terrain amongst all those, what appeared to be half blind drivers, was just a bit daunting.

We opted for the clockwise route, setting off about 10am equipped with water, fruit and energy bars. Fortunately, as it happens the route, sticking right along the coast ,proved almost flat.

One of the great things about cycling is its flexibility. It’s not hard to turn round if you miss something, the pace also allowing more time for observation. And it was in response to a call from J that we swung the bikes round and headed back to a somewhat obscured entrance to a great little gallery and workshop. It was tucked at the back of a garden and surrounded by palms and exotic plants. A huge string web hung between trees with the menacing form of black spider clinging to it. Amongst the plants were sculptures and the forms of lurking large and colourful butterflies. The gallery entrance was flanked by a large open workshop with a stack of re-claimed material strewn around ready for re-working. Inside, the imaginatively reconstructed sculptures were displayed alongside a range of bold colourful oil paintings to form an entertaining display, all of this was overseen by an attractive young lady provoking J back into French mode again....What a smooth, lucky sod!!!!

We stopped for a coffee, crepe and puncture repair (the joys of cycling) The weather remained fair and the pedalling easy. A huge sign in

a bend in the road just before a small climb, showed the way to a jewellery workshop and art gallery. This just had to be investigated and we pointed the bikes down a dirt road and pedalled for about half a mile. We passed more signs before turning right towards the coast and ending up amongst a small complex of ornate buildings all distributed around a small palm coppice with the beach as part of its garden.

Almost immediately we were greeted by a delightful petite, very French looking lady called Josylene. All of this was owned by her and her husband. She was the jeweller, setting pearls into delicately worked and hand beaten precious metals. Her husband did some of the same along with his speciality of oil painting. All of this artwork was displayed in a small shed like gallery that was absolutely crammed with beautiful objects of art and all accompanied by the commentary of the talented and delightful Josylene. She actually spoke good English. But J’s French took over again.....Opportunist!!!! It was a great diversion and with the encounter taking place in a superb setting. It was called the Golden Nugget, but we like to think that there was a certain tongue-in-cheekishness about the title, anyhow it all enhanced the whole artistic experience, another great stop!.

Back on the bikes we couldn’t escape the rain altogether. However, the light precipitation that did fall was welcome and refreshing.

Most of the population, of the Island, inhabit the coastline. Consequently open countryside was almost non-existent and we cycled past a succession of dwellings with no discernible village centre, very few shops and no cafes. It was now well past Beer O’Clock, but not a bar in sight!!! In a beautiful place like this surely one must emerge soon, but it didn’t. Then more than two hours later and long past the stage of hallucination, we arrived at a small supermarket, purchased two pint bottles of local ale (fizzy wine), parked ourselves on a couple of conveniently positioned stones located on the side of the road and downed about half in five seconds flat. It was then that that Tepari strolled up. He was an elderly guy, heavily tanned with an ample midriff. A battered hat covered a mass of crinkly grey hair that extended to his chin, with the matted strands finishing just below said chin and resting on his chest; and a smile that revealed a jumble of randomly positioned teeth that protruded at a variety of angles.

It was a warm welcome during which he informed us that the local gendarmes frowned upon public consumption of alcohol and directed us to a gate opposite. It turned out that he owned the shop, and the gate was the entrance to his garden situated on the edge of the beach. We gratefully accepted his offer and sat there finishing our beers in seclusion and comfort......What a great bloke!

It was now quite late. We were approaching Opunohu Bay,  the one adjacent to Cooks. The choice at this stage was, do we take the off road link that went up but was shorter, or do we stick to the coast road, the safer but longer option?

We stopped to admire the view, spoke to a group of friendly locals, listened to the advice of a couple of gendarmes and decided on the long route, eventually approaching the Pineapple bar and happy hour in the dark. We were fairly knackered and sore, but dry and satisfied, if not just a little smug. We tackled the off road section the next day, eventually climbing some 600 metres to the Belvedere, a vantage point flanked by the sheer faces of mountains where the boats appeared as small specks way below

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We’re leaving this place now, Was it good?  Certainly was! Here’s to the next one.

Let you know what it’s like!!!

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Bye for now Pete, John and Jeremy..