Fai Tira Blog Wednesday 16th June

Aitutaki 18:47.95S 159:41.20W

Photo blog to follow when we next get WiFi.

We arrived at Aitutaki on Friday 11^th June after motoring and motor sailing for seventy hours en-route from Bora Bora.  When we arrived there were two other non BWR boats anchored outside the reef and a large cargo vessel in the process of unloading containers.  We immediately launched the tender and I sped off to clear customs and immigration before they closed.  I was met at the quay by Pepe the agricultural officer who asked me what we had on board.  We had been warned about this, so had consumed almost all the fresh produce on board during our passage.  I declared that we had nothing on board to worry him and so signed the appropriate forms and paid the dues.  Next stop Customs.  The officer there couldn’t have been friendlier or more helpful.  It took just minutes to fill in the forms and I was off looking for the supermarket.  They had no bread left so I was pointed in the direction of another shop over a mile away.  The local school teacher, Kira, offered to take me on the back of her motor bike so we zoomed along and I obtained some bread.  She had offered to take me back and as she lived next door to the shop, I wandered around and met her Mother and Father who like her were delightful.  She gave me a melon and avocados and we headed back to the quay.  This was the first of many fantastic interactions we experienced whilst staying on this beautiful friendly island. That evening we checked out Spyder, the local internet cafe which is also a store, sells ammunition, bizarrely, and – more important to us - drinks, with tables outside at which to consume them.  We were offered a lift on the back of a pickup to the only hotel with WiFi, and sat with the locals watching New Zealand beat Ireland at rugby.  We were taken back to the quay by the local boat builder Tango. What a great first day on Aitutaki. Apart from the rugby result of course...

Aitutaki is made up of a main island enclosed by an aqua lagoon surrounded by twelve coral islands. Unfortunately the island was hit by Cyclone Pat in February and lots of damage was caused.  Regrettably there are still people living in tents provided by aid agencies because their houses had been destroyed.

On Saturday we did some jobs on the boat.  John changed the engine oil whilst Jeremy cleaned the cooker and I dived down to check out the anchor.  We headed into town again in the late afternoon, drank at Spyder with the local police superintendent and found a local takeaway burger establishment at the back of a nearby house on the main road. The best burger I think I have ever tasted. After eating, the chef offered to take us to the WiFi hotel so that we could order some boat parts and talk to our loved ones on Skype. These people are so lovely.

Sunday morning we were woken by Bali Blue as they arrived from Bora Bora.  I had coffee with them before we set off riding our bikes around the island.  Most of the islanders visit one or other different churches.  We stopped at a couple to listen to the wonderful singing.  The island is a paradise and after pedalling along the coast road/ track through the quite scenic countryside, via a Marae (old Polynesian religious site for sacrifices, initiations and other ceremonies) and a village hall selling home brew – definitely an acquired taste! - we eventually arrived at the “Boat Shed”.  This restaurant was in a fantastic setting and we enjoyed the food and the ambiance. After lunch, John and Jeremy rested in hammocks whilst I explored the expensive Lagoon Resort and Spa on an adjacent island.  We arrived back just in time to have sundowners with Pete and Carol aboard Bali Blue followed by a lovely meal and a few wee drams.  Cheers guys. 

Monday saw us re-provisioning and refuelling the boat.  This took most of the day. We headed back to the WiFi hotel for an evening meal, courtesy of a motor bike rented out by Pete and Carol.  Jeremy drove up to the Pacific Resort – a mere $NZ895-2090 per night for room only, cheapest beer $NZ10 – to have a nose round, then I went off-roading to the local viewing spot just in time to see the sun setting over the horizon.  

Tuesday was a great day.  We had arranged to go on a boat trip to Honeymoon Island and a few others also located within the lagoon, this was interspersed by snorkelling sessions and a fantastic lunch on a nearly deserted island.  This island is called One Foot Island and has a bar and post office on it.  You can get your passport stamped there as a memento of your trip.  The snorkelling was excellent in crystal clear waters. The boat owner Puna was a great chap and took us to the most amazing locations.  His wife Tutu and son Paki provided a most excellent lunch. Paradise.  You will have to see the photos to realize how special Aitutaki and its surroundings are.  

Please Please remember this is not a holiday it's an adventure.

We are now en-route to Niue. 

Bye for now.