Fai Tira at Porvenir in San Blas 09:33.33N 78:56.94W Saturday 30th January

Fai Tira
pete.callis53@googlemail.com
Sun 31 Jan 2010 15:21
 

Fai Tira Blog Saturday 30th January

Fai Tira at Porvenir in San Blas   09:33.33N 78:56.94W

 

The first thing to say at the start of this blog is....Phew!!!!!. The next and most important thing, is that we’re here on anchor in San Blas,    and safe!!.

 

We’d anticipated that the 750 mile passage would take us 5 days, in the event we reduced the distance by 30 miles and shortened the time by a day!!

This was to be a journey to yet another new and diverse culture. It was also the time of introduction to the new discipline of taking anti malaria tablets. And with the possibility of unknown side effects, not really what was needed at the start of a long journey. As it happens we both coped quite well, although I’m not sure that I didn’t just catch site of Pete standing on the aft deck, gazing upwards and howling at the moon. I suppose it could just have been the effect of the pills or perhaps a secret ritualistic chant to some imagined force, asking for a smooth and comfortable few days sail.....If it was then,  It didn’t work!!!!!!

The trip across this particular part of the Caribbean Sea had been the subject of many formal and informal discussions. Although there were few amongst the crews with personal experience, the briefings had been quite specific. Expect strong and consistent Trade Winds, expect confused seas’, expect large breaking, “ square waves,” and ensure that we head immediately to the 4000 metre contour and then continue, staying at least 100 miles from the mainland.

The descriptive tags, given to this long stretch of water vary’ and range from those such as the Northern Cape Horn to the locally mysteriously threatening description of “The Animal”

Now, perhaps, you can begin to get a feel for it. The creature that the locals described, is undoubtedly, the one we saw and it never slept, or if it did it was with only one eye closed, the rest of the time both were wide open as they intensely glared from a hostile face viciously shaking its body to rid itself of all intruders.

Most of the forecasts had given advanced warnings of strong winds, anticipating initially 15-20 knots then increasing to 25-35 by Thursday, not too much to there to worry about, it normally takes 25 just to get us moving.

As we set out in a North Westerly direction in the company of Bill and Sue on Camomile all the weather predictions were working and we hoisted sail with the same two main reefs that were in place as we arrived. The goose wing sail plan was functioning well and we were travelling the right way making about 6-7 knots. We soon lost sight of Camomile as their twizzle rig set up took them on a more northerly course. Our, now, more diagonal route was taking us further west, resulting in a dramatic cutting of the corner and keeping us much closer to the coast. We maintained our speed throughout the night, and with an average of nearly 7 knots we beat our previous 24 hour distance by one mile ending up with 167 miles.

During the next 24 hours our course took on a South Westerly aspect as we pointed more towards our original planned route away from the mainland coast and then directly at San Blas, the seas became livelier as the wind picked up. Our sail plan was still working well, although the stay sail was now down and with the conditions becoming more unpredictable, we also reefed in the genoa and changed our watch pattern to 3 on and 3 off. This was an attempt to cope with the extra physical demands of taking over from the wind vain when necessary. Once more our 24 hour best was up for grabs and we beat it by 2 miles

The wind speed followed its’ predicted pattern, although it was all happening earlier than forecast. We’d heard SSB reports from some of the boats ahead, and how the ones closer in, like us, were experiencing the added hazard of reverse current whipping up huge waves causing one of the other boats, as he put it, to shut down to survival mode.

Life was also now becoming very interesting for us. The wind gauge was constantly reading an apparent speed of 30 knots, gusting up to 37 and with the boat travelling at 9 knots, we found ourselves well in the grip of a force 8-9 gale.

The following seas had been continually building as the day progressed. They were now breaking and massive. At this stage the exhilaration of it all was masking any concern. Imagine looking up at the following frothing white mass as it lifted the boat as high as a small block of flats with us hollering as it surfed down its’ face at up to 14 1/2 knots into the huge hole left by the previous one and then gasping at the realisation of its’ size as it passed.

With the boat vibrating, the winds howling and the waves crashing, the noise was overpowering.

The wash boards were, now, well and truly in place, the hatch firmly closed and us securely hooked on, but it was at least still warm and with a full moon providing a floodlight on the surrounding frothing cauldron.....It was now becoming quite serious!!!

Sleep was almost out of the question, the movement so severe and all time spent below; made the noise from the overworked jibe protector, seem more acute. At about 2am we decided on another reef in the main. Being hove to in these conditions Just aint too much fun!!! Pete was at the mast I tried to steer the boat, which wasn’t responding well even under full power as we struggled to turn further into wind, against the force of a poled out genoa. We then had the awful realisation that a reefing line had fallen in and was wrapped around the prop. Luckily the cutter worked and we maintained manoeuvrability.

For much of the time we were now hand steering, trying to counter the slewing boat as it broached, occasionally submersing the boom in the water, verging on knock downs.

We were wet; we were tired and very relieved to see the dawn break. An inspection of the instruments revealed another record 24 hour distance of186 miles. Reports throughout the night also made us aware of the plight of the others.

Although not quite out of the woods, the worst was now behind us and we sailed into this fantastic place licking our wounds and looking forward to meeting up with the others and a chance to swap tales

 

Sorry no photos as we are sending by satellite. We’ll  send photos as soon as have WiFi connection.