Fai Tira Blog Monday 16th May

Fai Tira in Tahiti 17:32.42S 149:34.24W

 

It was Friday afternoon and time, reluctantly, to leave the atoll of Tahanea after what had been a memorable stay, but before then there was still time for one final snorkel and shark encounter, in the end we found that we just couldn’t get enough of them in spite of the occasional moments of intimidation (must try not to scare them next time!!)

 

The passage out was uneventful. The tide was slightly against, but we didn’t drop much below 3 knots. The forecasts were not encouraging, predicting light winds. The Journey to Tahiti and The Society Islands measured some 370 miles. We’d allowed ourselves three and a bit days to complete it. In the event we needed much less with Fai Tira being hurried along by 20 knots of North Easterly trades that shoved us forward at a healthy 7-7 ½ knots. So now with the luxury of choices we decided to approach from a new direction and plan a new destination for an overnight stop on Sunday evening. It would have the effect of allowing us a more extensive view of this dramatic coastline and the , more than desirable, opportunity to visit and stay in one of the more remote areas, before travelling on to meet up with the other boats in, what was bound to be, a busy, bustling and noisy Papeete

 

It turned out to be a great move.

Most of the island is surrounded by coral reefs with small lagoons inshore that separate them from the mainland and accessed through passes similar to those of the atolls except with a much lower flow of water. The descriptions in the publication Charlie’s Charts, and the delightful accompanying pen illustrations, had already primed us, so our taste buds were already salivating at the prospect of yet more dramatic sights. However in the event, the scale of the lush towering mountains, the depth of the steep sided valleys and the extent of the repetition as they opened up revealing peak after peak blurring into a hazy distance, was far more than our imaginations could possibly have anticipated.

 

The book also said “you will see waterfalls” but what it didn’t reveal was that these would be likely to start life out of site somewhere in the clouds, before bursting into sight cutting their way through the lush greenery whilst leaving behind a slender silver trail before disappearing and re- emerging as a tranquil stream gently flowing into the blue waters of the lagoon.

The route to the anchorage was clearly defined, although we still had concerns about partially submerged coral heads. However with David’s attentive watch from the bow sprit, we were ensured a smooth passage through.

It was now quite late in the day, just time for a beer before launching the dinghy to indulge in a spot of exploring and ice cream hunting. The ice cream hunt proved fruitless, but we were able to investigate the only restaurant in town. \so with arrangements made to return later, Pete and David went off in the obvious direction of town where I opted for the more convoluted route, the idea being that we would eventually meet somewhere in the middle. Pete and David stumbled upon a whole bunch of rejoicing and dancing that was linked to the celebrations related to a religious festival taking place across the island.

 

As for me, I strolled down a lush sheltered lane with the sounds of exotic birds for company. There were occasional dwellings nestled in the greenery and everyone I passed, ensured that I was aware of a friendly greeting. The air felt warm and moist, but occasionally freshened by a light shower. Either side of the road, almost buried among the palms, were irrigation ditches surrounding small raised islands of cultivation, almost giving a feeling of organised order amongst the overwhelming beauty, but the truth is it didn’t detract at all.

The sound of singing drifted in on the breeze. In a short period I found myself walking across a field towards a sports hall. Cars were parked outside and a few people were congregated around an entrance where young children ran back and forth, playing games. Inside, seated on the floor, were a group of 40 or so people, mainly woman. On the wall, in front, a screen displaying computer generated words, as well as a small group of musicians and about 4 lead singers directing the operation. I just stood there transfixed. The sounds being generated were haunting as the seated bodies swayed to the mellifluous rhythms. Everything appeared so casual as though this was something they did every Sunday just for fun, yet the timings and harmonies were so precise and organised. The smiles on the faces said it all, Spontaneous Polynesian singing. Pleasure both received and delivered........Magic!!

 

 

I met both Pete and David back at the restaurant. We were greeted by the owner. His grasp of English was not good, but David’s of French is and with a few gestures thrown in for good measure, the banter that followed was lively and entertaining. The meal was great and consumed in idyllic surroundings on a table and bench, in fading light overlooking Fai Tira and the lagoon.

 

 

 

 

It was time to leave. We were all feeling the effects of the last few days sail. However we still found the energy to get involved, in what turned out to be, a greeting celebration. The owner was entertaining just one other group. They were all in their fifties and it turned out that the brother and sister among them were his niece and nephew and this was the first time that they’d met. So what else could we do, it had to be another beer. The evening became extended with us ending up having a great time with people we’d only just met for the first time; culminating with hugs, slaps on the back and an exchange of details and T shirts.

It was an early start the next day. Our destiny of Papeete was about 35 miles away and we wanted to be there by early afternoon. A tall order in the best of circumstances, but problems with the windless and almost no wind made the task almost impossible. Anyhow what the heck, we’re in paradise, why hurry? So we just contented ourselves with pointing the boat in the right direction and marvelling in the magnificent costal views.

 

The approach to the marina and mooring up all went smoothly and the greetings with our fellow travellers, brief. However the chance to catch up came when we all met for an evening meal at an area known as The Roaches, a prepared site packed with vans that were in effect portable kitchens, surrounded by tables and chairs packed so tightly that it was difficult to distinguish one vendor from another. By all accounts this should have been a cheap meal, but the bill was distorted by the liberal consumption of, what turned out to be, not very good cider at ten pounds a bottle.

The next day was down to repairs and official greetings. I took on the task of trying to make a permanent repair to the windless. Bill from Camomile is a knowledgeable and accommodating engineer. We compared notes and came up with, what looked like, a feasible solution. Problem was, it needed some hefty bits of stainless and a welding set to glue them into the shaped bracket that I needed. We had none of these, but Stuart on Gaulteen did and with the aid of my sketch and some deft welding and grinding skills, within an hour he’d produced just what was needed.

I spent much of the rest of the day making it fit; interspersed with a visit to the afternoon start of the official greetings, that were to continue after a short break resuming with a garlanded, musician accompanied parade through the town to an open pavilion for an evening of further greetings, speeches, presentations, entertainment and food.

 

The speeches were delightful, a sincere welcome beautifully and humbly presented, followed by the presentation of an engraved plaque to each boat. The entertainment was stunning, fabulous Tahitian dancing by beautiful people to the rhythm of traditional drums. The men were tattooed, muscular and bursting with energy. The women!!!!! Wow.... How does anyone move like that. All I can think is that they must have more joints than the rest of us. Then just as we were becoming accustomed to this unadulterated beauty, all the onlooking male jaws hit the floor as a smiling vision of loveliness, in yellow, glided on to the floor. She was tall, she was slim. Everything about her was in perfect proportion. Her exaggerated hip gyrations and graceful swaying were mesmerising, her flowing arm, hand and finger movements both gestural and expressive.(I used to think that green was my favourite colour, might just change my mind now!!!)

 

 

The next day was spent on a bus tour with a delightful, charming and knowledgeable guide. It took us round the perimeter of the island, a trip that took in the Gaugin Museum and some of the more notable archaeological sites that were all viewed in, what was eventually, a tropical deluge.

 

 

We almost didn’t do the 4x4 tour. What a mistake that would have been! Thanks to David, last minute arrangements were made and we set out at 9.30am the following day with Eric our affable French guide, two American tourists and a lone Italian who spoke no English.

We first of all re-traced our steps of yesterday, provoking questions of why are we doing this. Then we turned right towards the centre of the island following the path of a river. It wasn’t long before we knew why. We passed signs saying 4x4’s only beyond this point. Shortly we found ourselves bouncing off boulders as we crossed the river. The scale of the valley was immense with lush green, and at times, almost vertical slopes towering way above us.

 

 The jolting ride had us hanging onto the frame supporting the canopy of the open backed vehicle. We swam in a river pool, before climbing up to a lunch stop at a rickety hotel high in the mountains. The weather, that had started to close in, now broke and the rain became torrential. Most of the afternoon was spent climbing spectacularly alongside unprotected drops un rutted and pot holed tracks strewn with boulders, reaching a height of 700 meters, passing through a sodden tunnel before descending to view a lake nestling way below. This was the end of the trail.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We re-traced our steps, stopped for a coffee and made our way back in rapidly fading light, along flooded tracks, lanes and roads.....A fantastic day, one that most tourists won’t see and one that’ll remain long in the memory.

The following day was devoted to repairs, That involved me making trips up the mast to replace the VHF aerial, check the foil connections and try, unsuccessfully, to repair the anonometer. In the evening the fleet organised a mass buffet on the pontoon culminating with Cmomile’s Friday quiz where boats paired off and sat on display while Sue, sat under a spot light issued the questions. A riotous evening.

The big event of the next day was the arrival of a number of tiki rafts that had started their journey some time earlier in New Zealand. The ceremonies were colourful, noisy and entertaining.

So that was it then. Our stay in Tahiti was nearly at an end. Sunday we’re off to Morea. Hope it’s as good. Let you know!!!

 

 

 

 

Bye for now Pete, John and Jeremy.