Fai Tira blog Friday 26^th November in Singapore 01:15.92N 103:48.75E

 

We turned our backs on Belitung, and once more it was with more than a little reluctance that we raised anchor, our first target the rudimentary sticks marking the so-called deep water channel. It was another occasion when it felt as though we were leaving a place that just cried out for more of our attention, without having had the chance to become more than just a little acquainted, and once more we found ourselves scrabbling around in the half light of a steaming, muggy morning, preparing the boat for the next stage of our journey. And it was about 7am, and with about 1.5 metres of water under our keel, that we crept out and joined the countless boats, with their waving and smiling crews, either going to, or returning from their daily trek that is the local fishing grounds.

 

 

So that was it, another 3 nights at sea and we aimed the boat at our next destination, Nongsa Point on the Island of Batam, for clearing out from Indonesia on our way to Singapore.

What we had to look forward to was a journey of 350 miles, with whatever wind there was, almost certainly to be from a Northerly direction and blowing straight down our throats. Steamingly hot days and sultry nights freshened only by the occasional squall and a struggling transmission, limiting our engine revs to1100, for the most part restricting our speed, with the result that there was every chance our ETA would be extended.

That’s pretty much how it was. The light wind was all over the place and the genoa was up and down like a fiddlers elbow..... (Might have mixed my metaphors a bit there, but at least it wasn’t rude!!).

The days were fairly uninteresting, and apart from the night lights of the numerous fishing boats, with support from those of the occasional freighter and tanker, the nights were also straight forward.

It was then, at the start of our second day, after spending the best part of a year, on the other side of the imaginary line that divides the two hemispheres. And after swaning around in this blue floating piece of iron we call home; at 8.16am on Thursday the 18^th November, with the islands some 80 miles off the coast of Sumatra forming the backdrop; we sat in the in the cockpit in the early morning sun and raised a toast, in red wine. We’d once more crossed the line and re-entered the Northern hemisphere. Quite a subdued affair really. We had considered ways in which we might enhance our reputation for tasteless photos and pose again,,,, this time minus the guitars!!!  However, bearing in mind the possibility that some people might be eating as they viewed them, we reconsidered.

 

It was very early the following morning that we arrived at the red and green cans marking the entry to Nongsa Point. The sail through the night as we transited the narrow channel leading to the busiest shipping lanes in the World, had been interesting to say the least.

 

 

We were always surrounded by lights, some on the land some at sea. Some were flashing some appeared from no-where and quickly disappeared. They were multi-coloured. A few identifiable others weren’t. Some were moving and belonging to boats towing unlit barges a long way behind; and always the distances difficult to judge. Often what appeared as a bright light a long way off turned out to be a dull light close up, only revealed when it started swaying or the background could be seen as it passed rapidly behind. It was then that you found yourself waving reassuringly to the occupants, trying to convince yourself that you knew they were there all the time whilst you knew that they were probably in the midst of a nervous breakdown watching the inexorable approach of this big lump of steel that must, at times, must have looked as though it was going to plough straight into them!....... Anyway we missed them all, and didn’t really come that close, although Pete, on his watch, did find himself taking last minute evasive action, as a tug emerged from the cover of a parked ship and headed straight for us...... Not all boring this sailing lark!!

 

As we hung around at the entrance to Nongsa looking at the mass of lights from the shipping lane, and viewing our now overloaded AIS as we waited for the dawn, we were joined by the yacht Miss Tippy. Then after exchanging hellos, we proceeded on together to the moorings and were greeted by some of the early bird crew from the other boats already in.

Nongsa Point Marina with swimming pool.

 

We had very little time to become acquainted with the marina at Nongsa Point as we were to be off early the next day.

Not really sure that there was a lot to say about it anyway. It was clean, modern, peaceful and primed us for the expense to come, that was Singapore just 20 miles away. Anyway it was, for us, only a staging post in order to complete the clearing out procedures from Indonesia.

Nongsa having served its purpose, a whole bunch of us set out on, what should have been a peaceful, calm 4 hour sail. Just time then to relax before reaching the hustle and bustle that was surely Singapore. After all we’d been floating around in this benign bit of sea for the last 2 weeks almost without a breath of wind. Why bother to check the weather forecast, this was only 20 miles, it couldn’t be any different to-day could it....... Well actually it could!!

We had all the weather during that 4 hour crossing, that we should have had during the previous 2 weeks!

We set out in a group of about 5 boats, but our ailing transmission and our engine rev. restriction meant that soon most of the others were long gone, apart from Moonshiner who, as it transpired had an un-well engine and were actually dropping behind.

The morning was still clear as we ran parallel to the congested shipping lanes watching the giants of the world’s waters gracefully negotiating this narrow passage.

The wind was blowing enough to fill the main and keep it stabilised, but a change was already detectable. The Sun’s glare was becoming diffused by light cloud, and up front the sky darkened and merged with the horizon as the wind freshened. With the now brisk wind hitting us amidships on the port side, we hoisted a reefed genoa.

It was now becoming seriously dark, but VHF communications from the boats in front, about to enter the shipping lanes, indicated that it was still dry. However, the sea was now quite lively and the once distant silent flashes of lightning were now accompanied by rumbles of thunder.

 

 

By now the wind was constantly in access of 20 knots as the rain began to fall in torrents and as the gust started to exceed 30 our attempts to furl the now rampant, genoa failed.

Moonshiner were still close by, their engine deteriorating, but without a main up, they weren’t struggling quite as much as us. The visibility was pretty bad, and just before it closed down altogether my attention found something else to focus on as it was drawn to a disturbance on the surface of the water about a quarter of a mile away to port. My initial casual glance soon became transfixed as I gazed at an elegant spiral of a waterspout twisting upwards from the waves whilst swaying and curling into the leaden sky way above....... An awesome sight!

As we entered the shipping lanes the visibility down to about 250 yards, Moonshiner was still limping along not far behind and the lightning flashes and cracks of thunder were almost simultaneous as we watched the forks earthing themselves against the water’s surface.

Thank goodness for technology. The AIS was acting as our eyes and we managed to locate a gap that gave us breathing space, how fortuitous, just after half distance, with the wind now dropping and in the midst of a bunch of boats that couldn’t stop or change direction within a couple of miles, even if they wanted to. Moonshiner’s engine stopped altogether. We quickly turned, came alongside and took a line. Then with the bow of a large barge bearing down on us, we took up the tow.

By now we were joined by two other boats, Moonbeam and Larooba, the later being the only one without mechanical problems. They relieved us of the tow once we were through the difficult bit, and then promptly drove past us in tandem.... Talk about feeling inadequate!!

Moonshiner on tow behind us and then behind Larrooba

 

The entrance to The Marina At Keppel Bay is uniquely impressive. The backdrop is a building site, but not just any old building site!  Dominating the skyline are the, partially completed and half glazed shells of five curly, banana shaped sky scrapers, that when completed will no doubt form an iconic vista and become play homes for the rich of the world.

 

 

See, not just the crew that’s pissed!!

 

Our welcome here has been unbelievable. The place is spotless and their attentiveness has to be second to none. Nothing is too much trouble. We have newspapers delivered in the morning and beautifully presented cakes and fruit in the evening. This is a place you could easily get used to!

 

Our welcoming party was great, with plenty of food and drink all evening.

 

We’ve been in Singapore for three days now and trying to make as much use of the immaculate MRT train system as possible.

We’ve both been to the river front at Clarkes Quay, ate, drank and people watched.

 

 

 

The colour and activity of the Riverfront at night

 

We went to the night safari at the huge zoo. It was brilliantly well done and presented, but in the end it’s just a zoo

 

 

The night safari and one of the best things at the zoo, having the dead skin eaten off your feet by a bunch of fish.

 

Pete went to The Universal studios, with a bunch of guys, and had his body tied to a bit of metal then hung on while some disconnected power threw it around at exceedingly unnatural speeds and angles.

 

I took myself off to the galleries at the National University of Singapore and indulged in some beautifully presented, brilliant culture, and luxuriated.

 

Pete explored China Town, whilst I did the same at Little India.

 

 

Some of the sights from Little India

 

So much more to see and do, and we’ve also made provisions to lift the boat at Langkawi.

 

Rugby on Saturday and then we’re off

Watch this space!!