Fai Tira Blog 16.00 UTC  Monday 21st December

Fai Tira still in Antigua .   17:00.52N 61:45.90W

It seems to me that we are now in the longest period without rain in Antigua, for a considerable time. I’m sitting here at 7.45pm local time. The thermometer, located below in the saloon, is registering 34 degrees C. and the heat feels oppressive. Whilst realising that this may be a sensitive statement, with everyone back home in the UK. suffering the severest early winter cold and snow in a long time, but with Dee having finally given up, after succumbing to the heat and humidity by evacuating the cabin to spend the night sleeping in the relative cool on the deck, whilst leaving me to battle with a couple of mosquitoes that were looking to bite chunks out of my already ravaged body. I have to say that the thought of a winter night in Oxford, just throwing on another blanket to keep warm, snuggling down and not feeling the need to feverishly scratch huge areas of already bitten and erupting skin, has a certain appeal!

You will have realised, by now that Dee, my wife, has already joined me for Christmas. Pete’s wife, Judy, and his Dad, Horace, are leaving the UK shortly to arrive on the 23^rd  of December, weather permitting.

I thought that after such a long journey, and also with Nelsons Dockyard being the opposite end of the Island, it would be good to meet Dee at the airport.  In order to achieve this the two options to consider were, taxi or bus. The appeal of taxis’ are obvious, the most prominent of these being comfort and convenience, but both to an extent, being offset by the huge cost.

I enquired about the logistics of bussing. The response was good. Into St Johns, one change, a short hop and I would be there.

And after all, what about this sense of adventure (don’t forget this isn’t a holiday).........What am I saying!!!

So with mind made up, I checked out the posh Lumber and Copper Store Hotel in order to confirm the validation of my hastily booked two night reservation made before our Barbuda sail, and with the appealing prospect of a couple of luxurious nights ahead, set off in the direction of the bus stop.

Both bus and I arrived at about the same time, and soon any nagging doubts that I may have harboured about the wisdom of my decision evaporated. This was great fun.

I soon found myself experiencing, what amounted to, an extension to the colourful Caribbean culture I first encountered during my earlier bike ride and day in St Johns.

The driver acknowledged every one he knew, or those whose driving in his opinion may not be as good as his, with a toot on the horn. So pretty soon you work out that he knows just about everyone and also that he’s by far the best driver on the Island.

I also noticed that passengers only seemed to pay at the conclusion of their journey. How on earth with all the comings and goings, he managed to remember where they got on, to make the correct charge is beyond me. Perhaps it’s a bit like dart players’ who all eventually seem to become mathematical geniuses. The more exposure the better you become.

However I’m just not sure how to account for his uncanny physic ability. On more than one occasion we stopped and waited at an empty bus stop and then, miraculously, within a short period a prospective passenger would appear from within nearby shop or from behind a front door..... Now that’s clever!!!

I know, because I saw them, that there were bus stops out there. However I don’t think it would have mattered if there weren’t. Just stick your hand out and the bus would stop anyway, and if it didn’t look like it was going to, a chorus from the observant passengers would soon alert the driver and we’d come to a juddering halt. And all the time your eyes were treated to a whole host of roadside activities and scenery.

However, beware..... If you are sensitive to the sound of reggae style Christmas carols continuously blasting out to a background of noisy chatter and laughter, or if your nervous about being exposed to the dangers of a driver who continues at high speed towards diminishing gaps with a mobile phone stuck to his ear, whilst driving a vehicle where the door lock, looks like it’s just been welded together by the local blacksmith, you might want to think again!!!

The plane was delayed by the UK weather, so it was late by the time we checked into our posh temporary residence. A newly managed balconied and terraced restaurant, overlooking the water, hastily accommodated our vegetarian needs with some brilliant food. Then back to the hotel to indulge in some air conditioning........Bliss!!

Nothing was planned for the next couple of days, just relax and explore. An unexpected and pleasant bonus was to discover that an art exhibition was taking place in our hotel, with an evening private showing, and we were invited

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The works were by a Canadian born, but now local lady called Nadene. I thought her style, subject matter and application were brilliantly accomplished and came away feeling inspired, envious and very inadequate......Pretty standard stuff for me then!!!.

The jobs, unfortunately, don’t disappear. The tender puncture needed repairing, Pete took care of that. We both manhandled the large, back up, but fun engine onto the tender for the expected longer trips. I cycled all the stop cocks and checked the engine mounting locations. We both visited the sail menders in order to progress our genoa repair. Whilst they hadn’t done all we’d asked, our confidence in their ability was boosted when in response to my enquiry about why the offending tear had been cut out and not just patched, he explained about the weight of the canvas needing to be maintained for the repair to be effective. ..Who was I to argue!!.

More indulgence to-day with another trip into St Johns, just can’t get enough of the atmosphere of that place.

Hemmingway’s cafe was the location for lunch and another chat with the delightful owner Anna Mitchell. She flatteringly remembered me. It’s a great place in a great location. The link with Hemmingway, himself, may be unclear, but if I were him and looking for somewhere to inspire, then where better?

This place just gets better and better!!!    

Bye for now.

Pete and John