Fai Tira Blog  01/10 

Fai Tira  at Tavira 37:07.01N 7:37.32W

This is our third day on the mooring, and out of communication, in the delightful, lagoon like setting, that’s been acting as a base, while we’ve explored and visited friends in and around the pretty town of Tavira.

Our previous overnight stop, at Faro, although welcome proved uncomfortable. The anchorage was sheltered, with us tucked just inside the breakwater, but it didn’t prevent the boat being thrown around by the heavy swell (something I haven’t got used to yet, is trying to sleep with my feet sometimes two foot higher than my head)

Anyhow the break did have the effect of providing a bit of rest, while at the same time, shortening the next days’ journey, to just twenty miles.

Again it was under power for much of the time, in sunny warm conditions on a mill pond like sea, with the extremely light winds, but directly on the nose. For the most part our activity was restricted to trying to spot and avoid the mass of fishing pots that seemed to be waiting just to trip us up. The result was that our course probably gave the appearance, at a casual glance, to something like that of a downhill slalom skier.

We’d also read in the book about being observant of the extremely long trawl nets in the area plying for tuna.

It’s an industry that, although still active, has suffered considerably from recent over fishing and is now in decline.

It wasn’t long before we saw, what I thought was the distant shore line dotted with small towers stretching for miles. However a glance, by Pete through the binoculars, showed something else.

Directly in front and blocking our passage was, what seemed, a never ending line of linked markers  (the small towers), with very large fishing vessels, in the distance at one end, and a number of smaller craft at the other. Tuna fishing!

The description in the book didn’t do it justice. It was just like a small, self contained, floating industry. And the only way to be sure of missing it, was a drastic change of course and one that took us much closer to shore.

However any inconvenience suffered, was offset by the benefit of picking up sea breezes that had the effect of providing a good sail for the last few miles on the approach to the harbour entrance.

Colin, Pete’s friend had suggested that Tavira would be a good place to stop and even leave Fai Tira overnight.  We moored up on what was, we hoped, the first convenient visitors buoy.

Colin, now living part of the year not far from here, was already on his way. A sailor himself, he was keen to catch up and see the boat for the first time. Judging by his reaction on arrival, I think he was reasonably impressed. It was good to meet up and hear his views on our antics so far.

A beer or so later, and Pete was off with Colin to spend the night in his nearby hillside home. Pete met up with Sue and their youngest son James.  Pete had previously sailed Colin’s own yacht part of the way from England to Tavira with the both of them. So the stories flowed as did the wine before they all headed off to the local Portuguese curry house. Pete had a great night and looks foreward to sailing with Colin on Friday. 

Dee and I, left to our own devices, headed to the town.

The walk along the 2k causeway is flanked on both sides by active salt marshes and protected wetlands containing a whole range of birdlife. The sun, even though low in the sky, still generated enough warmth to make the journey a bit of an effort, but how fantastic to stroll past a bunch of wadding flamingos’.

What a nice town! We ambled in along the harbour wall, past a whole range of fishing craft and cafes.

It all had the effect of encouraging the feel of an authentic working environment, while at the same time still managing to display all the charm of somewhere that’s tastefully trying to attract visitors.

The pull of the skyline, had your mind racing in all directions, trying to make sure that nothing was missed and drew us in the direction of a majestic church just outside the walls of the castle. It was closed but the castle wasn’t, the view across the roofs of the town from the ramparts providing a whole new perspective.

The night spent in the serene surroundings of the mooring was blissful.

Pete was in touch soon the next day. We had all been invited to spend the night at the fabulous, holiday, home of Pete and Lynne Walton our friends from Dartmouth. What great hospitality, food, tour of the local bars and eating places and use of their super pool.

A big thanks to you both!!

The next day, back at the boat, was going to be the last chance for more exploration.

We decided the sands of the adjacent, tourist island had to be at least worth a visit. So we went prepared, cosies and all, and yes! in spite of all our instincts screaming at us that this is the Atlantic and bound to be cold, we took the plunge. 1^st of October, must be mad, but yes you probably guessed it, you tend to do daft things when you’re on holiday!!

Bye for now. 

Pete, John and Dee