Fai Tira Blog Friday 18th June

On the way to Niue 19:12.58S 165:10.70W

The, overnight, choppy seas and howling winds heralded the change in conditions that the Grib files had forecast and we’d hoped for. The night on anchor before we set off felt uncomfortable, not just physically, but there was also a degree of anxiety was creeping in. The boat was positioned close to the reef and swinging around in this newly arrived mini gale. The other reason was that we knew our anchor had made contact with a number of coral heads on its descent to the seabed some 20 metres below. We also knew that the chain had snagged, causing the boat to veer abruptly with the combined force of wind and wave power.

It was decided that Pete would dive to free it, while Jeremy and I manoeuvred the boat to a set of given instructions via a bit of string held down by a weight. It all seemed a bit complicated if not a little risky. Any way all went smoothly and with the anchor up secured into position and resting on its nice new locating pin, we turned the boat towards open sea and off we went.

Our original plan was to break up the 560 mile trip to Niue with an overnight stop at the small uninhabited atoll known as Goodrich Reef. It’s located a little way South and some 440 miles away. The pilot books had written of it affectionately making it sound both charming and isolated. The problem is that the entry, to the small lagoon, through the shallow and narrow passage is difficult even in ideal circumstances; but with the forecast predicting that even stronger winds would arrive later a revised plan was hatched. Nothing complicated, it just meant re-setting the course and making a direct route to Niue.

As soon as we left the questionable protection of the anchorage, the seas unleashed their venom. I’d taken the precaution of gluing a travel patch behind my right ear and although I’m sure it had an effect, I found myself in the all too familiar early passage feelings of mild seasickness (even in its mild form it aint good)

The main sail was quickly up, followed closely by the genoa and staysail then with more than one wistful glance over the shoulder to see the fabulous Aitutaki disappearing into the distance; we set the boat up for a broad reach and sped off making a respectable 7 knots with Bali Blue not far behind.

The day passed quickly, the seas became even more testing but the boat speed remained high. With our anemometer still out of commission, our assessment of the wind speed was fairly speculative, but I think a good guess could put it at around 20 knots from the South East.

A sail plan for the night was formulated; it still allowed for a broad reach but incorporated a reef in the main and the dropping of the staysail, a precautionary move in anticipation of squally conditions.

The pattern of night watches was decided, with a 2 on 4 off regime. Three of us on board make them so much easier, although with all the comings and goings, I still find sleep hard to come by.

Most noticeable feature of these initial watches was the drop in night time temperature and the blackness of the nights; even the stars were struggling to penetrate the overriding dark.

The watches passed without incident. The conditions calmed down slightly and although the sea was still lumpy and the wind throwing in an occasional gust, it all felt slightly more relaxed. The sail plan was still working but our speed had dropped to below 6 knots.

As the morning took hold the conditions remained almost unchanged, except the wind had moved to a more Easterly position. It meant we were now travelling too far in a Southerly direction and it had to be rectified. So after stowing our temporary night spray canopy, Pete and I moved forward to break out the spinnaker pole and use it to force out the genoa. The exercise went well, but was delayed while we sorted out a riding turn in the drum of the furling gear. The manoeuvre complete the boat felt transformed, almost like going down wind, everything felt quieter and smooth, far less fraught even with the still rough conditions and with just 420 miles to go we’d completed 140 miles in the last 24 hours. Pretty good and right on schedule for an ETA of late Sunday morning.

As the morning progressed the wind moved further to the East. Again we were struggling to hold course and with the genoa constantly on the verge of backing, we decided to jibe the pole. Although it’s been a while, the procedure went well and with the boat now goose winged and gliding along at a glorious 6 ½ - 7 knots and in the right direction, we sat back and relaxed. It was also the opportunity to drink coffee, eat chocolate biscuits, talk about our recent snorkelling exploits and watch as the huge Pacific rollers wound themselves up, lifted the boat to the height of a two storey house, before sliding under the hull and disappearing majestically into the distance. This was sailing as it should be!......Wonder how long it’ll last?

Surprisingly it lasted for the rest of the daylight hours.

My third watch started at midnight Thursday. Once again I was greeted by a very black night. No moon, and stars struggling to assert their authority through a thin layer of cirrus cloud that was quenching their sparkling brightness. The temporary spray canopy was in position giving an air of claustrophobia. Jeremy had experienced a bit of a squall, so there were adjustments to be made before Fai Tira adopted a comfortable balance that eventually had her cruising along at 6-7 knots.

A scan of the horizons, although difficult to determine, confirmed a blackness devoid of any artificial light. I took up my normal night watch pose. Bum perched on as many dry cushions that I could find; life jacket squeezed on over an insulating fleece (told you it was cold!!!) Then with my back to the canopy and gazing out through the open side into the featureless night, my mind drifted off onto its normal tour of its accessible recesses, at least the ones not buried under too much clutter, whilst at the same time wallowing in the tranquillity of a South Pacific night watch.

We’ve now 225 miles to go before reaching our destination and our ETA remains Sunday mid day ish.

There’s a certain feeling of anticipation surrounding Niua. The tourist board have made a really good job of promoting its assets and the yacht club sounds a quirky sort of place not to be missed. Add to that the prospect of swimming with hump backed whales and sea snakes.

Looks like there’s a lot to look forward to