Hammamet was easier and more welcoming

South Pacific Familyadventure 2008
Claes Brodin
Sun 11 Feb 2024 16:15
As usual before departure we were in contact with the Marina in Favignana to avoid bad surprises upon landfall.
From Navily we got contact details to Francesco appearing as harbourmaster.
We reached him on WhatsApp (in Palermo) and he explained to us that the marina was closed for winter but "you can allways moore alongside".
From Italian Waters Pilot as well as Navily the best place for mooring alongside seemed to be inside the south pier of Marina Favignana and expecting foul weather with winds gusting 40kts in the evening we needed a safe mooringplace.
To proceed to Trapani (2hrs more) didn´t appear as an attractive alternative since galewinds were already howling and seas building up.
We managed to make a starboard landing concentrating all large fenders on the centre of the boat to avoid the ledge of stone in the waterline and once properly moored with springlines and dampers it all seemed safe.
That´s when the head of Guardia Costa (Coastguard) with 3 supporters appeared. He asked us who had given us permission to moore in this place and chew us out for not carrying the Italian courtesey flag. The order was to leave immidiately and upon the question "where to find a safe mooringplace with a severe gale building up" his answer was "that´s not my problem". Not really knowing how to deal with this whole issue we started to prepare for departure when 4 officers from Guardia Finanza (Customs) arrived by boat. They wanted to see passports and all ships documents and upon the question of "where to find a safe mooringplace" they answered "you are very safe right where you are "?! Confronted with the orders of Guardia Costa to depart immidiately they told us we were free to stay all weekend and until it was safe to leave.
The weekend passed with westerly galewinds gusting 40kts and with the time the swell also built up making Dora Mac dance a lot.
We managed to fender off properly but allthough loads of springlines and dampers the bowline was eventually ripped off.
Today winds have decreased but still with a heavy swell we woke up by Guardia Costa banging on the rail of Dora Mac. The order was to leave immidiately. I explained that there was still heavy and dangerous seaway in open sea and got the answer "you have a boat who can handle it"
I then took all ships documents and walked the long way to the office of Guardia Finanza . After a thorough security check I was appointed to the head of office who asked me to explain the problem in slow and good English. After explanation including pictures of harbour pilot,Predictwind weather and log book as well as claiming the right of safe port in adverse weather (or Swedish Embassy would be contacted) he assurerd me he would do what he could to solve the problem. After contact with the commander of Guardia Finanza in the region he got "carte blanche" to solve the problem to our advantage and the Guardia Costa was contacted.
Now we have permission to stay until it´s safe to leave which means early tomorrow morning.
We were mentally prepared to have a lot of bureaucratic problems in Hammamet and had none. Once back in the EU we are used that this kind of bureaucracy runs smooth but in Favignana/Sicily it didn´t.
It never stops amazing me how these bureaucrats,who populate the whole planet (but frown better in certain systems), by expressing the only little power they have, can not only destroy your day but also put you in danger. As a cruiser you are much more exposed to this nuisance than when living an ordinary life.

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