The Islands of Vanuatu – Santo, Espiritu Santo
Peregrina's Journey
Peter and Margie Benziger
Wed 12 Jan 2011 02:35
Position Report - 15:31.559S 167:09.886E
Leaving Vao, we headed to Espiritu Santo
Island, the largest in the archipelago. Peter had been looking forward to
visiting the main settlement of Santo on this island because here one finds the
site of the U.S.S. Coolidge, an American troop and cargo carrier that was sunk
during World War II. The ship,
apparently, was a victim of “friendly fire” hitting a mine placed by our own
Navy to guard the entrance to the bay.
The Captain, in an effort to save the crew, drove towards shore and ran
it aground just a couple hundred feet off the beach in about 125 feet of
water. Peter made two dives into the
wreck penetrating the hull with lights.
He’ll tell you about the dive in a separate email….
But, did I mention the earthquake???
Well, as it happened, Peter and I were walking back to the
dinghy, each carrying one handle of a large canvas bag filled with groceries
that we had just purchased in downtown Santo.
The sidewalks were all broken up and rutted in places and it was
definitely not a smooth surface so, when I stumbled and almost fell down, I
assumed that I had just tripped over my own two feet but Peter immediately
said, “Margie, I think we’re in the middle of an earthquake!”
I was about to tell him he was crazy when I realized that
the entire population of the town was spilling out from the buildings and into
the streets! I especially noticed a
small group of kindergarten children who were herded out of their school by
three teachers and immediately circled together holding hands with the teachers
surrounding them like mother hens. It
was obvious they had done this drill before and, the more I looked around, the
more I realized that Peter and I appeared to be the only people panicking at
the thought of our impending doom while all the others seemed to be taking this
natural disaster in stride! We finally
asked a couple guys standing nearby, “What’s going on,” and they replied, “Just
another earthquake.” JUST ANOTHER
EARTHQUAKE??? OMG!!!
As it turns out…Vanuatu is apparently a hotspot for seismic
activity and this sort of thing happens with great regularity around these
parts. Who Knew??? We come to find out that this earthquake
registered a hefty 7.2 on the Richter scale and, lucky for us, the epicenter
was about a 100 miles south, closer to Port Vila. We learned this out when we visited the
hardware store a few minutes later (after we had caught our breath and checked
to see whether we had pee’d in our pants.
You’ll be happy to know we hadn’t…)
The manager assured us that this earthquake wasn’t that much of a big
deal. Apparently, they consider it a
“big deal” when the paint cans start falling off the shelves. “Makes a terrible mess,” he noted ruefully.
Anyway, we found out later that night that Caroline and
Stewart on Gaultine III, who were
still on the dock at Port Vila, got rocked by so much wave action that their
lines, which were attached to the dock, snapped right off the cleats! Luckily, they suffered no damage as a
result. But, Lucy Alice, with Glenda and Ian aboard, who were sailing not far
off the coast of Port Vila, were buffeted by huge waves that knocked them all
around the cockpit and their mast shook so violently that they were afraid it
was going to go down! It was quite the
show of Mother Nature’s fury and one that I will not soon forget!
Needless to say, we bid a dubious fond farewell to Santo,
Espiritu Santo the next day and headed off for Mackay, Australia. We had waited for a weather window for
several days and the entire fleet was ahead of us with the exception of Aqualuna, with Jonathan, Gabbie and
Donald aboard, who showed up the night before to our great surprise and
pleasure. I don’t like to be at the end
of the fleet so it was nice to know that we’d have at least one other boat in
the vicinity, although Aqualuna, a
Discovery 55, would, undoubtedly, pass us very quickly and beat us to Mackay by
a considerable timeframe.
Nevertheless,
it was a comfort to know that we’d have another boat to “buddy sail” with on
our passage – which meant that we could set up a schedule for SSB radio checks
at 2am and 2pm each day in addition to the Blue Water Rally radio “Net” that
operates at 10am and 6pm daily. That
way, we knew there would be four chances for us to call for help if
necessary. As it turned out, we didn’t
need it because we had a terrific sail to Mackay….8 nights, 9 days of perfect
sailing conditions, sustaining winds of 18-22 knots from the South South East
and calm seas all the way. We didn’t put
our engine on until the last day when we had no wind and a terrible fog that
reminded us of the coast of Maine.
But, we’ve reached Australia, having crossed the Pacific in
192 days from the Panama Canal to Mackay.
We haven’t come half way around the world yet but we’re getting
close. We’ve covered almost 12,000 miles
so far and we’ve had the time of our lives.
Thank you so much for allowing us to share our journey with you. Stay tuned, it’s only just begun…..