Cook’s Bay, Moorea
Peregrina's Journey
Peter and Margie Benziger
Tue 11 Jan 2011 01:14
Position Report -
17:30.139S 149:49.157W
Just 12
miles from Tahiti, Moorea is a world apart.
Whereas Papeete is a big city with pollution, noise and traffic jams,
Moorea is the prototype for Hollywood’s version of the peaceful, idyllic South
Pacific. Shaped like a heart, Moorea was
formed when the northern half of a great volcano fell into the sea. The remaining rim has eroded into jagged
peaks and spires that give the island a very haunting profile. In Return
to Paradise, Michener wrote, “ Moorea seems to have about 40 separate
summits: fat thumbs of basalt, spires tipped at impossible angles, brooding
domes compelling to the eye. But the
peaks which can never be forgotten are the jagged saw-edges that look like the
spines of some forgotten dinosaur.”
Moorea’s
20,000 residents live in small settlements on the coastal plain. Although there are a few hotels and a couple
luxury “honeymoon” resorts here, tourists have not taken over the place and it
retains its Polynesian charm.
Apparently, as Papeete has become more developed, Moorea is now a
bedroom community for those who take the30-minute ferry back and forth to work
each day.
We anchored in Cook’s Bay, which incidentally was NOT the
bay that Captain Cook discovered on his third visit to the region. He was actually next door in Opunohu Bay but
why quibble? The anchorage is right in
front of the Bai Hai Resort and they allowed us to use all their facilities.
Cook’s Bay is breathtakingly beautiful with mountains that
leap vertically right out of the water surrounding ¾ of the bay. As it happens, a bunch of the BWR-ers,
including Margie, came down with strep throat and the flu in Moorea! I had hoped it would pass quickly. Flash forward 4 days…. and I was still sick
so Peter is going to have to give you the lowdown on Moorea sometime as I
didn’t see anything at all outside of Cook’s Bay.
However, one of the best memories that we’ll have from this
trip happened in Moorea – Peter’s 60th birthday party! And, I couldn’t have done it without the help
of my fellow Rally-ers. Earlier in the
week, I had mentioned to a few people that I wanted to have a party for Peter
for his 60th. (Not so
surprisingly, many of the men on the Rally are celebrating their 60th
birthday this year) Anyway, when I got
so sick that I literally couldn’t get out of bed for four days, I was really
bummed out and then Gillian from Spirit of Nina came over to the boat and so
don’t worry, we’ve got it all set up for a surprise party at the outdoor
restaurant in the Bali Hai Resort which was officially closed for business that
night.
On the day of his birthday, we told Peter that, since I was
just recovering from being so sick, I hadn’t had time to organize a party so
we’d be going out to dinner with Gillian and John for a “quiet” dinner that
night. I could tell Peter was
disappointed and all day long, everyone in the anchorage made a point of
stopping by and saying Happy Birthday but NO ONE asked him what we were doing,
or they said that they had heard that we were going out to dinner with Gillian
and John and “wasn’t that nice!” Peter
was getting more and more depressed. At
one point, Maria and Steve from “Aspen” - the other Americans on the trip -
stopped by with a card and Peter said pleadingly, “We’re going out for Italian
food tonight, do you want to come?” And
Maria, with a totally straight face (I had to look away) said, Oh thanks but
Steve wants me to cook Italian at home tonight!” I thought Peter was going to cry! He looked so devastated! Later, he said to me, “Even the AMERICANS
don’t want to celebrate my birthday with me!”
Right up until the very last minute, I think he had hope that something
was going to happen because when John called an hour earlier than expected to
invite us over to their boat for a drink, Peter said to me, “Do you think
they’ve invited some other people over for my birthday?” It was all I could do to say, “I don’t think so,
honey.” The truth was that we needed to
get Peter on Spirit of Nina, which was anchored at the far end of the harbor,
in order for everyone else to dinghy in to the restaurant! So when we arrived, of course, there was no
one else there and the look on his face said it all….That’s it! No party for me!”
We had a bottle of champagne and then we bought some time
with small talk until it was time to go.
As we approached the Bali Hai dock, the restaurant appeared dark and
closed (although everyone was hiding behind all the furniture) and they had
even arranged for one of the hotel employees to pretend she was our taxi driver
and she met us at the dock with a lei and a crown of flowers for Peter “compliments of the restaurant.” So he got off the dock and begrudgingly
allowed the woman to deck him out in flowers and, at that moment, the lights
went on and everyone yelled, “Surprise!
Happy Birthday!!!” Well, you
could have knocked him over with a feather!
He was totally fooled and the smile on his face was worth it all.
We had a fabulous night complete with an amazing potluck
dinner, music, dancing and games. (In
addition to cross dressing, this group loves games too!) We played “Pass the Hat” sitting in a oval
and passing hats backwards from one head to another. When the music stops, the person without a
hat is OUT. When it finally got down to
Ger from Simanderal and Pete from Fai Tiri, we knew it was going to be a fight
to the finish but Pete just stuck the hat in his pants and Ger wisely conceded
defeat. We played another game where we
had a 200 foot line that had to go down your shirt and pants and then up the
next persons pants and shirt effectively tying 10 people together and then you
had to get all the line back out again.
I know, I know, these are grown men and women here but just go with the
flow...
Last, but not least, we played a game where each contestant
had to put on a huge life jacket, snorkel mask and gloves and then they were
given a long somewhat dull knife and a barbeque fork and they had to try to cut
open a package that had been wrapped VERY tightly with layer after layer of
newspaper and tape. You slashed and
stabbed at the package until the music stopped and then the next person had a
go at it. It was pretty hilarious and,
of course, in the end, they let Peter win.
After much effort, he revealed the prize – a huge bar of chocolate.
And, finally, the cake!
Sue from “Camomille” made a beautiful chocolate cake for Peter and we
all enjoyed it while Peter read a poem he had written early that morning (when
he still had hopes that there was going to be a party and before he was sure
that there wasn’t….)
Birthday Dreams
Today, I thought I would look back
To the many birthdays I have had
So travel back in time with me
‘Til I was just a wee, young lad.
The first cake that I remember
Had about five candles or so
My mother told me to make a wish
And to puff up my chest and blow.
I also remember wild, frosting fights
When I would grab handfuls of the gooey stuff
And try to put it in my sister’s hair
‘Til she shouted “Ok…enough”
Back then, I did not focus on my age
Nor how the past was or the future would be
Birthdays were about the presents
And who gave what to me.
The next big birthday was sixteen
For with it came a license to drive
Freedom, speed and recklessness
Made me really feel alive
Eighteen was also a milestone
That I celebrated in 1968
For I was old enough to be drafted
But thankfully the army was not to be my fate
At twenty-one a door was opened
To legally purchase liquor and hit the club scene
So off we went to carouse and play
Gee, life was getting pretty keen.
The next milestone in birthdays
Came when the kids arrived
For celebrating their special days
Makes me feel really alive
So now, today is my 60th birthday
Unless the birth certificate is wrong
It is hard to really come to terms
That I have actually lived this long
For some reason “60” is a big one
Although I cannot tell you why
It just seems to be a birthday
That doesn’t want to slip right by
So if it must be special
Then let the God’s align my fate
And may my dreams come true
Before it is too late
Since I was just a wee, young lad
I have dreamed of a sailing ship
To take me around the world
On a blue water adventure trip
So, my dreams really have come true
For here I am today
With my wife and good ship Peregrina
And my voyage is underway.
Thank you my friends for joining me
To celebrate that dreams come true
For there is nowhere I would rather be
Than sailing here with you.