Cook’s Bay, Moorea

Peregrina's Journey
Peter and Margie Benziger
Tue 11 Jan 2011 01:14

Position Report 17:30.139S 149:49.157W
 
 
Just 12 miles from Tahiti, Moorea is a world apart.  Whereas Papeete is a big city with pollution, noise and traffic jams, Moorea is the prototype for Hollywood’s version of the peaceful, idyllic South Pacific.  Shaped like a heart, Moorea was formed when the northern half of a great volcano fell into the sea.  The remaining rim has eroded into jagged peaks and spires that give the island a very haunting profile.    In Return to Paradise, Michener wrote, “ Moorea seems to have about 40 separate summits: fat thumbs of basalt, spires tipped at impossible angles, brooding domes compelling to the eye.  But the peaks which can never be forgotten are the jagged saw-edges that look like the spines of some forgotten dinosaur.”

Moorea’s 20,000 residents live in small settlements on the coastal plain.  Although there are a few hotels and a couple luxury “honeymoon” resorts here, tourists have not taken over the place and it retains its Polynesian charm.  Apparently, as Papeete has become more developed, Moorea is now a bedroom community for those who take the30-minute ferry back and forth to work each day.

We anchored in Cook’s Bay, which incidentally was NOT the bay that Captain Cook discovered on his third visit to the region.  He was actually next door in Opunohu Bay but why quibble?  The anchorage is right in front of the Bai Hai Resort and they allowed us to use all their facilities.
Cook’s Bay is breathtakingly beautiful with mountains that leap vertically right out of the water surrounding ¾ of the bay.  As it happens, a bunch of the BWR-ers, including Margie, came down with strep throat and the flu in Moorea!  I had hoped it would pass quickly.  Flash forward 4 days…. and I was still sick so Peter is going to have to give you the lowdown on Moorea sometime as I didn’t see anything at all outside of Cook’s Bay.
However, one of the best memories that we’ll have from this trip happened in Moorea – Peter’s 60th birthday party!  And, I couldn’t have done it without the help of my fellow Rally-ers.  Earlier in the week, I had mentioned to a few people that I wanted to have a party for Peter for his 60th.  (Not so surprisingly, many of the men on the Rally are celebrating their 60th birthday this year)  Anyway, when I got so sick that I literally couldn’t get out of bed for four days, I was really bummed out and then Gillian from Spirit of Nina came over to the boat and so don’t worry, we’ve got it all set up for a surprise party at the outdoor restaurant in the Bali Hai Resort which was officially closed for business that night. 

On the day of his birthday, we told Peter that, since I was just recovering from being so sick, I hadn’t had time to organize a party so we’d be going out to dinner with Gillian and John for a “quiet” dinner that night.  I could tell Peter was disappointed and all day long, everyone in the anchorage made a point of stopping by and saying Happy Birthday but NO ONE asked him what we were doing, or they said that they had heard that we were going out to dinner with Gillian and John and “wasn’t that nice!”  Peter was getting more and more depressed.  At one point, Maria and Steve from “Aspen” - the other Americans on the trip - stopped by with a card and Peter said pleadingly, “We’re going out for Italian food tonight, do you want to come?”  And Maria, with a totally straight face (I had to look away) said, Oh thanks but Steve wants me to cook Italian at home tonight!”  I thought Peter was going to cry!  He looked so devastated!  Later, he said to me, “Even the AMERICANS don’t want to celebrate my birthday with me!” 

Right up until the very last minute, I think he had hope that something was going to happen because when John called an hour earlier than expected to invite us over to their boat for a drink, Peter said to me, “Do you think they’ve invited some other people over for my birthday?”  It was all I could do to say, “I don’t think so, honey.”  The truth was that we needed to get Peter on Spirit of Nina, which was anchored at the far end of the harbor, in order for everyone else to dinghy in to the restaurant!  So when we arrived, of course, there was no one else there and the look on his face said it all….That’s it!  No party for me!”

We had a bottle of champagne and then we bought some time with small talk until it was time to go.  As we approached the Bali Hai dock, the restaurant appeared dark and closed (although everyone was hiding behind all the furniture) and they had even arranged for one of the hotel employees to pretend she was our taxi driver and she met us at the dock with a lei and a crown of flowers for Peter  “compliments of the restaurant.”  So he got off the dock and begrudgingly allowed the woman to deck him out in flowers and, at that moment, the lights went on and everyone yelled, “Surprise!  Happy Birthday!!!”   Well, you could have knocked him over with a feather!  He was totally fooled and the smile on his face was worth it all.

We had a fabulous night complete with an amazing potluck dinner, music, dancing and games.  (In addition to cross dressing, this group loves games too!)  We played “Pass the Hat” sitting in a oval and passing hats backwards from one head to another.  When the music stops, the person without a hat is OUT.  When it finally got down to Ger from Simanderal and Pete from Fai Tiri, we knew it was going to be a fight to the finish but Pete just stuck the hat in his pants and Ger wisely conceded defeat.  We played another game where we had a 200 foot line that had to go down your shirt and pants and then up the next persons pants and shirt effectively tying 10 people together and then you had to get all the line back out again.  I know, I know, these are grown men and women here but just go with the flow...

Last, but not least, we played a game where each contestant had to put on a huge life jacket, snorkel mask and gloves and then they were given a long somewhat dull knife and a barbeque fork and they had to try to cut open a package that had been wrapped VERY tightly with layer after layer of newspaper and tape.  You slashed and stabbed at the package until the music stopped and then the next person had a go at it.  It was pretty hilarious and, of course, in the end, they let Peter win.  After much effort, he revealed the prize – a huge bar of chocolate.

And, finally, the cake!  Sue from “Camomille” made a beautiful chocolate cake for Peter and we all enjoyed it while Peter read a poem he had written early that morning (when he still had hopes that there was going to be a party and before he was sure that there wasn’t….)


Birthday Dreams

Today, I thought I would look back
To the many birthdays I have had
So travel back in time with me
‘Til I was just a wee, young lad.
 
 
The first cake that I remember
Had about five candles or so
My mother told me to make a wish
And to puff up my chest and blow.
 
I also remember wild, frosting fights
When I would grab handfuls of the gooey stuff
And try to put it in my sister’s hair
‘Til she shouted “Ok…enough”
 
Back then, I did not focus on my age
Nor how the past was or the future would be
Birthdays were about the presents
And who gave what to me.
 
The next big birthday was sixteen
For with it came a license to drive
Freedom, speed and recklessness
Made me really feel alive
 
Eighteen was also a milestone
That I celebrated in 1968
For I was old enough to be drafted
But thankfully the army was not to be my fate
 
At twenty-one a door was opened
To legally purchase liquor and hit the club scene
So off we went to carouse and play
Gee, life was getting pretty keen.
 
The next milestone in birthdays
Came when the kids arrived
For celebrating their special days
Makes me feel really alive
 
So now, today is my 60th birthday
Unless the birth certificate is wrong
It is hard to really come to terms
That I have actually lived this long
 
For some reason “60” is a big one
Although I cannot tell you why
It just seems to be a birthday
That doesn’t want to slip right by
 
So if it must be special
Then let the God’s align my fate
And may my dreams come true
Before it is too late
 
Since I was just a wee, young lad
I have dreamed of a sailing ship
To take me around the world
On a blue water adventure trip
 
So, my dreams really have come true
For here I am today
With my wife and good ship Peregrina
And my voyage is underway.
 
Thank you my friends for joining me
To celebrate that dreams come true
For there is nowhere I would rather be
Than sailing here with you.
 
 
 
 
 

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