Maratua, Kakaban and Sangalaki

Like Derawan the nearby islands have very shallow surrounding reef with a very deep drop off so visiting in Gryphon II is impossible as there is nowhere to anchor. Maratua is an exception to this as it is horseshoe shaped with a lagoon within the horseshoe. We thought we would have a look with the prospect of taking the boat there so booked with a local tour operator to do a three island tour. It was and exciting high speed day.

Maratua was the first island we visited and we went on the outside of the horseshoe rather than inside so that we could snorkel over the reef drop off which is always interesting as it attracts larger fish and reef sharks as well as large shoals of fry and small fish. The water over the reef was so shallow we had to swim a long way to find a sandy passage through to the drop off which was quite dramatic with caves in the steep sides on the way into the deep. The sun prismed down through the water to we know not what depths.

It was really tiring and we were glad to get back to our speedboat for the day which we shared with Ralph and Natalie from Australian yacht Saltotu.

Kakaban was our next stop. This island is an extinct volcano which had sunk and filled with sea water to become a lagoon but has since risen trapping the sea water to form an enormous lake surrounded by mangroves. The unique thing about this lake is that when all this geological upheaval was happening centuries ago four species of jellyfish were trapped in it; they have all evolved to become stingless and without predators have increased in numbers so that the lake is dense with them. There are said to be three such lakes in the world, two are in Indonesia.  Having recovered from the long snorkel at Maratua we climbed the board walk which snakes up the side of the hill over great sweeps of uplifted coral heads now dry and crusty, nasty stuff to slip on hence the board walk. Suddenly it opens out and drops to the lake in the crater, quite a site but we had no idea what was in store for us.

We donned mask and snorkel, flippers not allowed, and slipped in with the slippery inhabitants. We have avoided jellyfish like the plague for fear of stings, there are some pretty poisonous ones in Australia and Asia. These, however, were very different and we were surrounded sometimes swimming through thick clouds of them. Not slimy and extremely graceful we were able to appreciate their perfect forms and it was a very pleasurable experience.

The strangest were those that spent their lives upside down on the bed of the lake waving their delicate fronds to gather their food.

Having been delighted by these diaphanous creatures there was further enchantment when we saw the submerged roots of the mangroves covered in iridescent sea squirts and crustaceans.

This was like a fabulous kaleidoscope of living creatures, they were breathtakingly beautiful. We hope to swim in the second jellyfish lake in the Spice Islands – the Togeans.

Sangalaki was the last island and we wondered if this might be an anti-climax after the jellyfish lake. That was until we saw the manta rays. Our helmsman was well used to spotting these shy creatures and soon pointed out the small dorsal fins breaking the water, we hadn’t expected so many. Quickly we were over the side of the boat and amongst them, never too close, one stroke of a wing can take the skin off the back as their skin, even more than shark skin, is razor sharp. Not really an issue as they fly away once aware of intruders and its back on board but another pod glides in and its off again with these elegant fish which must be the most graceful in all the oceans .

The largest mantas can span more than 8 metres, the biggest we saw were about three metres across .

A short landing on the island then we sped back to Derawan and Gryphon II completely tired out by the speed, the distance, the snorkelling and swimming and the sheer joy of these three islands. We agreed that Maratua would definitely be our next stop.