Molene N48 24 W4 30.5

Gryphon II
Chris and Lorraine Marchant
Tue 30 Jun 2009 20:04
We sailed off the mooring this morning starting off on a sail to Ushant (L'Ouessant), wind soon dropped to fishing speed ie. 2 knots but caught nothing and are now motoring a 6 knots in order to get the right tides for Passage du Fromveur where the tidal stream runs very strongly. Chris saw a Porpoise as we approached Ile Molene passing Hell's Plateau on the port side with a towering rock so high that we thought it was a lighthouse until seen with binoculars. Taking this as an omen we decided to divert to Molene.

 

This is a tiny island just south of Ushant, which like some of the other places we have been to this year and last is a fantastic pile of rocks that extends ever further out to sea as the tide retreats. There is a surprising large village on the island, covering about 1/4 of the land area. Once the people survived by crofting, with an emphasis on fishing the rich waters. However today the crop is tourists that the ferry brings 3 times a day from the mainland. The population in winter is 250 but in summer more like 1500. we were the only British boat in the harbour , although we met some very friendly Belgians returning from Portugal.  They told us of their stormy crossing across the Bay of Biscay saying that they wished they had had goggles with them as the spray blowing into their cockpit was whipping their faces and stinging their eyes.
 

At the weekend the anchorage filled up with French yachts one of which anchored dangerously near us and just avoided collision as the wind swung them round.