We trail a lure after the boat whenever we sail and today for the first time in a while we caught a beautiful big mahi-mahi.

She weighed in at 20 lbs, a bit smaller than the tuna we caught but nevertheless an exciting catch. We now have a fridge full of fish and have given some sizeable chunks to 2 other boats nearby.

Anyway a fast sail brought us to the entrance of Maupiti, a miniature Bora Bora. Many boats bypass the island as the entrance has a reputation for strong currents and dangerous overfalls. When the swell is high these atolls fill with the water breaking over the reef that then finds its way out again via the passes. In this case there is only one narrow pass and the currents can run out at 9 knots. However, timing is all and mid-day is always slack water at the passes. We arrived at 11.30 a.m., the swell was a relatively small at 1 to 2 metres and the current was minimal, so we had a easy if nervewracking entrance.

The island has 2 charms. One the contrast between the different blue colours of the lagoon and the green of the hills and two the friendliness of the locals. Everyone here has a smile on their face, whereas in Bora Bora the people appeared to be in a rush or at least to have had enough of tourists.

Rush hour in Maupiti

The Church with its anchor motif

There are no cemeteries in these islands so deceased relatives stay with the family in the garden.

A walk up the 1200 ft hill allowed me some stunning views over the lagoon, which would only have been bettered if the sun had come out. These views show the narrow pass between the 2 motus that flank the entrance channel and the idyllic anchorage we had off the village.

This is the last of the French Polynesian Islands with a village that we will visit. There is one more Society Island to the west which we may call in to, but there is only one family who permanently live there.

We will remember all these islands and their relaxed friendly people for a long time. The welcome could not have been bettered and the scenery is of course stunning. Maupiti is really a microcosm of all that is wonderful in French Polynesia and a fitting end to this chapter of our cruise.

Canoe Tattoo