The countryside thrusts out to the point du Raz, the headland jutting out to the Ile de Sein. The infamous Raz du Sein rushes between the two where the sea is squeezed through causing massive tides which can reach 8 knots. We sailed through it in calm weather at slack water to reach Audierne in time to anchor in the busy outer harbour before all available space was taken. Lots of boats coming and going here, quite a few English either en route to Brittany's Biscay harbours such as La Rochelle or leaving to plough back north to U.K.

In the inner harbour marina we have met only one other U.K. Boat bound for Spain, a catamaran 'Razamattaz' with Tony and Ann aboard who are making their way to the Algarve. The Harbour Master here is very friendly and speaks good English. He offered to drive Chris off to a garage to get some butane gas but the local chandlery got their next delivery in so we didn't have to impose on him.

I have done much laundry here in preparation for the Biscay crossing and northern Spain when I hope not to do any for a while. I used my hand powered baby washing machine 'Wonder Wash' which works on pressure like a pressure cooker – it really works, the laundry is (amazingly to me) as clean as a launderette wash and, of course, in this hot weather it dries draped over the rigging, very effectively.

Food here is good, we have had a fish menu with tasty starters and yummy puddings; gallettes/crepes with cups of Breton cider, it seems to be the local tradition to serve cider in large wide cups rather than glasses. It slides down the throat very well! Ice creams are – well, very good indeed.

Thanks to sister-in-law Mary I have a heavy weight sewing machine on board and have just finished making a cover for our, new to us, 4 stroke Yamaha outboard motor. Our old Yamaha 2 stroke motor, which was at least 20 years old, finally packed in when we were in Guernsey. We met a great guy, the IT co-ordinator for the local Chandlery dealers who had the year old Yamaha for sale. We went home with him to have a look, it was like new so we snapped it up and can now go considerably further again than rowing was allowing. All at half price with a 4 year warranty – great.

Today we took the bus inland to Quimper (Kemper), a town full of flowers, medieval buildings and water courses; it was such a good mix of historic and smart modern. The town was busy but the Musee Breton was virtually empty, we had the place to ourselves: costume, sculpture, paintings and Roman antiquities/treasures, made a really interesting visit and I got in half price!

Audierne has bee a good stop over, it has brought us back into civilisation and afforded us good resources and preparation time for the Biscay crossing which is our next venture.