North Bali - Lovina S08 09 595 E115 01 386
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Beautiful Bali
This island has been a delightful surprise to us. We were ready to be disappointed by Bali, as we were with Tahiti, having heard that it has become quite commercialised. We thought it might be like the Ibiza of the Indian Ocean but have found something quite different, the place is still wonderful and we wished we could stay longer. The Kuta region in the south is an area of heavy development with budget tourists facilities and busy beach activity, some say seedy but we didn't go there so cannot comment. Bali is a big island with beautiful, lush country side full of emerald rice paddies, orchards, vineyards and fields of vegetables. It has a wonderful coastline and is steeped in a unique Hindu culture which makes it so different from the rest of Indonesia. It really is a special place with this rich version of the Hinduism replacing the austerity of the Islamic regions further west and east. The buildings, temples and street sculpture are highly elaborate, spiritual and fascinating.
A manifestation guarding the entrance to a road, they are everywhere.
Having had a successful stay in peaceful Serangan hidden in the hectic south of Bali, we sailed back northward. We stayed close to the coast to avoid what can be powerful counter currents and the tactic paid off, we made good headway ploughing north following the coast toward the rally meeting place of Lovina, a relaxed, quiet resort on the north coast of Bali. Apart from Kupang this was the busiest stop of the whole rally with 70 boats crowding the anchorage and taking advantage of the restaurants and the interesting excursions. Like many places we have been in Indonesia there is no quay for dinghys, the beach was steep to so getting ashore and out of the dinghy sometimes required a mighty leap before the next wave rolled in to turn it about and soak the crew, we didn't always make it. Protected by reefs offshore the beach is grey black being volcanic sand which by mid-day was too hot to walk on in bare feet. We had our usual welcoming speeches, dancing displays and dinners but with the Bali twist.
Of course Bali is well known for its dancing and we were treated to a number of displays which were exquisite; the hand, foot and head control is extraordinary.
These were some of the younger dancers nervously waiting for their turn.
Spot the odd one out.
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The restaurants were extremely good, if sometimes a little surprising..............
Duck a les pieds et bec? (Look carefully). One of the events put on for us was a Bull Race which consisted of pairs of bulls harnessed to a sledge on which sat the "jockey".
Even the bulls like to look their best for a show! Magnificent animals doted on by their owner/trainers who have them trotting like horses and dressed to shine.
All these events: dances, bull races and even the gala dinners are accompanied by Gamalan Orchestras. These consist mostly of xylophone like instruments that they bash away on with ornate hammers accompanied by wailing flutes, large drums and the odd gong. It looks highly skilled and there are some impressively complicated rhythmic patterns in the music but it is a bit of an aquired taste. It is very atmospheric on a sultry tropical night as the dancers pose their way through their dances but you would not want a CD of it.
Some of the happiest times for us are times spent with the local people and on our walk back from the bull racing we met this lively bunch of students who were keen to converse in English.
Ages from 17 to 28 and training for work on cruise liners, they were a polite and friendly crew, keen to speak English and practice their skills. We met them on and off over two days and eventually met their teacher who was in fact Belgian.
Peter being taught a Balinese dance in the car park, we had a lot of fun with them..
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