Anse Amyot, Toau S15 48 W146 09
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Next stop was Anse Amyot, on
the northern side of Toau Atoll and its lagoon. In this case the anchorage was
in a blind pass. That is to say that it looked like a pass but was closed off by
reefs on its inner edge so that it is not possible to sail through into the
lagoon from here. However, it was deep enough and so tucked in behind reefs as
to provide a safe haven from the high winds we had during our
stay.
Unusually for the Tuamotus there are mooring buoys here, laid by the local family who are the only inhabitants at this fabulous location. The moorings are totally dependable as long as their chains are in good order as they consist of coral heads around which the chain is placed. 
The wonderful deal here is that you are not charged for the mooring as long as you take a meal in the family restaurant run by Valantine and husband Gaston. The restaurant is like no other restaurant we have been to. When we said that we did not eat meat Gaston suggested lobster. Voila.........myself and James, from speedy catamaran Snow Leopard, were asked if we would like to go fishing for them which we duly did. We were taken out to the reef by Gaston and another relative in their flimsy feeling plywood boat with a 150 HP outboard on the back - wow! We traveled about ¾ mile along the seaward side of the atoll and landed on the reef and then proceeded to follow the shore line looking under bits of reef that had holes eroded under them. Sure enough, with a bit of poking and semi submerged peering into holes, we duly gathered 10 smallish crayfish type lobsters. When I say we, neither James or I found one ...but we did at least poke about and carry the bag! At dinner we ate with Gaston and Valantine our hosts, James and Lucy from Snow Leopard, John and Chris from Sarah Two and a French couple with their young son who had arrived the previous evening in their steel boat. The meal was delicious, beside barbecued lobster we had some excellent poisson cru (raw parrot fish in lime and coconut milk) and a variety of reef fish. There is no ciguaterra here as the reefs are undisturbed by any motu development or degradation and the family catch a lot of fish that are then exported to the larger islands such as Fakarava where the toxin is prevalent in the reef fish. The only thing lacking was any vegetables or salad. These islands have very little soil and growing produce other than coconuts is almost impossible. Valantine did have some young tomato plants coming on nicely but it is doubtful they would be for visitors. Water is surprisingly not a problem in the islands. For drinking, rain water is collected from the roofs but there are also wells which produce mildly brackish water that is fresh enough for other domestic uses, such as washing and cooking.
Another highlight of the stay was walking around the small island or “Motu”. We were accompanied by Baloo, a dog that looked as if he might have some Rottweiler in him but had a wonderful character.
As we reached the shallow water on the offshore reef he began pacing through the shallows and then chased fish into corners where he picked them up and proudly presented them to us, before rolling on them to help kill them off. We were presented with 6 fish in all, 4 of which were parrot fish of a good size for eating and one which we put back that had a boy racer paint job .....a Picasso fish.
Fortumately Valantine had prepared us and we were equipped with a plastic bag. That evening we ate dog fish...or at least dog caught parrot fish! It must be one of the only places in the world you can put protein on your plate simply by taking the dog for a walk.
A school of Blue Chromis The underwater environment is in pristine condition with masses of fish of all sorts and sizes,. The only disappointment was that the strong winds we had meant the snorkelling was not easy and the water a little cloudier than it usually is.
Big Eye Squirrel Fish
Some friends of Baloo, including a Benbow lookalike, a puppy and a baby frigate bird.
Oh and they have wonderful sunsets too!
Gaston and
Valantine treated us as if we were one of the family while we there and we will
remember their welcome and their magical island life for a long time to come. It
is a unique place and it could not be in better
hands. |
Yellow Trumpet Fish
Pipe fish
