We made it to Fort Lauderdale after a passage of just over eight days from Cayo Largo, Cuba. FLD is like no where else we have been, big, brash and loud. We are moored up in a marina Bahia Mar surrounded by stink boats. The cost per night I don’t want to discuss except to say that it was half the price of the first place we tried which only started its rates at 50ft. It would be true to say that the experience is novel and probably one we won’t be experiencing in RT too often. It is possible to anchor up, go on a mooring, even moor up at the bottom of someone’s garden, etc but until we get our US Cruising permit we had better sit tight or face a fine. We will only get our permit on Monday as the office which issues them don’t work weekends.

 

The passage from Cayo Largo is varied. Firstly we had to get the 200 odd nautical miles from Cayo Largo to the western tip of Cuba.  This went really well on a reach. We ticked that off in under two days except the the wind abated then headed us over the last 20 nm. We chose to go close in for the rounding and picked up a lift from the current but then got headed again. We motored much of this section in order to keep up progress and get us onto what would be our long windward leg (200nm) to Key West and then onwards a further 100nm to FLD. During Norm’s watch the weather changed, we were headed again and the wind and rain picked up. on one occasion in the failing light we saw the blackest cloud formation I had ever seen coming our way. Not to be too dramatic but it looked like the approach of a hurricane. We were thinking of taking all sails down and wait for it to hit us but as we were thinking about the colour brightened up so we pressed on. We had quite large seas and didn’t make a lot of progress that day as we tried to tack our way out of the confusing current in that area and so take advantage of the Gulf Stream that streams through the gap between Cuba and Mexico. Eventually the stream took over and were swept onto our exact course. That wasn’t going to last and it was only a matter of time before we would be beating up wind again.

 

Key to understanding what was happening to us with all the currents was the speed through the water instrument. This had stopped working a few days ago and I was reluctant to remove the transducer whilst out at sea. Then we were hit by this enormous wave which crashed the boat and lo and behold the impellor started again. With this information we could now see how much we were headed and lifted by wind and current. RT doesn’t make a lot of leeway but tacks through a 110 degrees so with 7 degrees of leeway either side that adds up to 134 degrees. This is not conducive to good up wind work. However sometime with the current behind us we could reduce that to 90 degrees. But in many case that is not possible.

 

We tried al sorts of approaches to improve progress we tried motoring to trying and raise the mileage. Then we tried motor sailing using Monica. This was quite productive as we were able to improve our up wind performance considerably until at last whilst going past the Florida Keys we could hold the a course of about 60 enabling us to track the Keys and not have tpo put in so many tacks. With out the engine we would have been tacking for ever in working our way past the keys. Eventually with about 60 nm to run to FLD we could free off. The last run up to FLD was on the conveyor belt called the Gulf Stream we were doing between 6/7 knots with an easterly wind. Just to frighten us the US Coastguard where now issuing a high storm wind warning , we did get up to 40 knots through out the night but we were not affected too much as we were and motor sailing at that time with a well reefed main sail only.

 

Off Miami we made contact with the US Coastguard. We hadn’t done so earlier in case they tried to drag us into Key West. We were instructed to stay at least 3nm off shore until the Coastguard cutter approached us. We finally made it off shore FLD and hove to. A holding technique but in a current of up to three knots we  soon abandoned this approach and motored to hold position and waited and waited and waited for the Coast guard. Finally after a few terse communications over the radio they arrived. It was too rough for them to board us off shore so we were escorted with blue lights flashing to the Port Everglade turning basin. As we approached the basin they came along side whilst underway and literally piled on board. Half a dozen armed to the teeth and tore the place apart. They were everywhere, questions fired at me whilst we still underway trying to avoid shipping and bridges. They were friendly but in total contrast to all other coast guard authorities we have experienced who asked to be shown around. When they were happy we had not illegals or contraband they left us as quickly as they had arrived. I don’t know what it is but the US Customs when ever we have met them now and before in Puerto Rico they are always a bit OTT  compared with any other countries we have visited.

 

Requests from the Harbour for details of marinas were responded to but basically ignored. We pressed on up river and under a bridge which should have easily accommodated RT gave me an awful fright as we went under. Bridges are always like that though. I don’t think I have ever been under a bridge were at some point I’m convinced we are going to whack it.

 

At the moment we are trying to arrange a meeting with my sister and brother in law, Jean and Ron who by chance are holidaying in Florida from Canada where they live and with my son and daughter in law and new baby Leo who live temporarily in Washington. I could fly to Washington, Norm and I could drive or alternatively we could sail to Chesapeake Bay and drive the short distance from there. All to be sorted out in the next few days.

 

Before we can even think about sailing we need to get some sail repairs sorted and some new head sail sheets fitted.

 

Our Track around the West of Cuba

 

With no change in wind see how our track is affected by the Gulf Stream, the land shown is the north west Cuba coast

 

One of the Better Mornings

 

Our Escort into Port Everglades