Antigua to the Islands that brush with the clouds.
17:32N
63:08W 9th
April 2009 Libertad:
Today is Thursday before Easter and we are on passage to Saba a small Island to
the north and west of Antigua. Since Tim left to fly home last week we sailed
from Jolly Harbour on Sunday to Monserrat, We spent a day with a guide
showing us the part of the Island that is still habitable since the eruption of
1997.more than half the Island is now out of bounds and considered to be
dangerous even to visit, this includes the once capital, Plymouth. We drove as
far as possible up garibaldi hill and then walked to the summit at 2200mts to
get the best view of the active and smoking Souffrierre volcano and the ash
flows covering much of Plymouth. I found it quite unsettling to look down on the
deserted homes, schools and shops of this once bustling metropolis.Monserrat is
a British colony and is getting funding to rebuild the capital at little bay.
The first building to be completed is the cultural centre funded by a generous
gift from George Martin, the Beatles producer. The rest of this new capital is
slowly taking shape with heavy earth moving equipment moving an entire mountain
that is in the way. We spent some time talking with a lady who had lost her home
in the eruption and that of her parents. he
anchorage at little bay is now the port of entry and sits to the north west of
the island under the shadow of silver hill, I hope that this area will be a safe
haven for this burgeoning capital. We
weighed anchor and departed Little Bay for St Eustatius (Statia) a Dutch island
25 miles to the north west of Monserrat.With the 18kttrade wind on the beam we
made swift progress averaging over six kts and arriving at the anchorage before
lunch. With Q flag fluttering from our starboard spreader we all set off in the
dinghy (Doris) to clear customs and immigration, this was a relatively painless
one stop one form entry compared to some we have experienced. Liberated to
explore this small but interesting island we set off along the old now derelict
waterfront of this once bustling harbour. In true Dutch style they traded with
anyone with anything that turned a profit, at one time supplying both the
French and the British with gunpowder and munitions. As a result of this the
island had changed hands many times. On one occasion Admiral Rodney sailed
from St Lucia with a fleet and capture the island and confiscated several
million pounds worth of goods, he also left the Dutch flag flying for several
weeks enticing many trading ships to drop anchor in the bay falling victim
to yet more plunder from Her Majesties Navy. The economy now is based on a large
oil terminal on the northern tip of the island which in characteristic form
trade oil from around the world to supply the Caribbean region with a variety on
oil based products, the local currency is still the Fl florin or Dutch guilder
but as usual the mighty U.S. $ is widely accepted. We
spent time walking to the upper town and exploring the fortress and museum. The
local people are the most hospitable we have yet met in the Caribbean, always
greeting you with a welcome smile. Ewan
noticed that The Old Gin House now a hotel was offering a happy hour and live
entertainment that very evening so after some snorkelling (saw a turtle) and a
roast chicken dinner aboard Libertad, we Dorised ashore to relax with a rum
punch or three returning at 10:00 pm, yes that is very late for us, to a cockpit
nightcap of some of Ewans finest Whiskey and bed. Today
we are motor sailing to Saba another island to the North West but more of that
on my next blog. Best
wishes to you all from the crew of Libertad: Paul, Corrie Sarah, Emily and
Ewan. |