The beginning of the end.

18:26N
64:31W. Trellis Bay Tortola, British Virgin Islands.29th April
2009. Well
were are back in Trellis bay at the top end of Tortola, Guy arrived on Friday
night minus his luggage, It finally arrived at midday on Saturday having been
off loaded somewhere on route or not loaded in the first place, As they say
breakfast in New York luggage in Berlin ! He ho, no apologies from LIAT
that they are sorry for the worry, delay and inconvenience this must have cause
you, please accept this--------------- as a token that on this occasion we
did not offer complete satisfaction, thank you for choosing us as your airline,
we realise you have a choice and hope you will consider flying with us again.
Not even a good morning or smile, LIAT get your act together, you are the front
line as far as tourism is concerned in the Caribbean. After
that introduction I am surprised he is still here. We sailed from Trellis Bay
after lunch going around the eastern side of Tortola to Norman Island and
The Bight. This was a downwind sail giving Guy an easy introduction to
Libertad. Norman
Island is a favourite of mine with some excellent snorkelling on the cliff and
at the Indians. We tried out the happy hour on the pirate ship(moored in the
bay) bumping in to a group pirates fancy dress party; the dress was full of
eye patches, hooked hands, parrots and wooden legs,
arrrhh. The
weather was on the change and overnight the wind increased with heavy
gusts coming from the East, dawn revealed a cloudy windswept sky with squalls
hitting the boat every few minuits.We decide that a day at The Bight with a walk
over the Island would fit the bill. Landing at the dinghy dock and parking
Doris, we set off up the hill behind the Pirates restaurant following the track
to the summit we met two Americans, also from a yacht. The ridge walk to the
north has fantastic views to the windward of wild surf ridden beaches and
coral reefs lying in wait for that unsuspecting ship. To the leeward side of the
Island are sheltered bays of clear blue water with just one or two yachts
nodding on their anchors, waiting patiently for their next passage or port. By
11:00 the sun was out and heating the day making the hills a little hotter, a mile or so to the
north we had come to the end of the track a small bay with a very small harbour
but no boats. It must be a work in progress. We retrace our steps back to The
Bight and a welcome beer to refresh our flagging spirits, Ewan decided with
Sarah to swim to Libertad whilst Guy and I chose the drier option. Doris was
rubbing sponsons with other larger dinghies on the dock so before things got out
of hand we untied her painter and took her home. Our
second night at The Bight saw us frequenting the Pirates bar ashore before
dinner aboard Libertad. Our
explorations completed of this pirate island (It was suppose to be the
inspiration for the book, by Robert Louis Stevenson’s,” Treasure Island”) we set
sail for an early morning dive on the Indians, picking up the last
available day mooring we had a pleasant hour watching charter boats fight
over any vacant mooring buoy that
became free. The
diving, although rough was clear despite the poor weather and the crew
reported seeing Baracuda.Zebra and Coral fish to name but a few. Letting go we
set a course under reefed main and genoa for Soapers Hole and West end Tortola
soon reaching a speed of 6:5 Knots on a run. Leaving
the island of Little Thatch to port we luffed up and furled sails to motor
in to the fuel berth and bunker some much needed water and petrol for the
outboard motor. Soapers Hole
is a very protected harbour with Saint John U.S.Virgin Islands, to the
south and Tortola, and Jose Van Dyke to the North, in times of
hurricane warnings it is a harbour of refuge. for vessels seeking
shelter. Our water
tanks filled to the brim we let go lines for a mooring just a few yards
away. After a lazy lunch we went ashore for urgent supplies from the Pusser
dock. For the first time in a while we decided to have dinner ashore and after a
very successful happy hour in Soapers Hole we took the dinghy to the Jolly
Roger Inn for Aberdeen Angus burgers with all the trimmings. Sitting by the edge
of the dock we noticed several large silver fish maybe a meter in length,
we were told they were Tarpon. After
a very stormy night rolling on the mooring with a grey sky and frequent
showers, and squalls Guy stripped and greased the two main sheet winches
before going for a walk along the coast road towards Road Town. Finding a
convenient supermarket we stock up with esentials.The walk back was about a
two mile trek, but with the aid of the hitchhikers thumb I had a ride back with
the shopping to Soapers Hole (Skippers prerogative!) I delivered the
shopping to the boat fridge and returned to shore collecting the crew just
before the heavens opened. We
had beef ribs with fresh salad and potato salad for dinner, a far cry from hard
tack in days of old! Our
second night at Soapers was a little quieter and the following morning the
weather showed signs of returning to normal. We let go the mooring at a
respectable 09:30 and set a course through Thatch Cut
turning north to Sandy Cay and Jose Van Dyke. This tiny atoll with
just three palm trees and a little scrub is the “a typical” desert
island, letting go the anchor in 20 feet we waited for it to set but in a gusty
15/20 knots aborting our attempt after dragging, I decided to head for Monkey
Point another favourite dive spot. Arriving just before lunch the crew boarded
Doris to explore the point returning for lunch and a trip through Guan Island
and Great Caminoe to Trellis Bay at the top end of Beef
Island. It
is now 20:30 hrs the TV is showing an episode of Coast (Dorset and the Jurassic
Coast) I hope Libertad will be sailing that very coast in just a few
months. We
hope to visit the Baths at Virgin Gorda ( not what they seem ) returning to
Trellis tomorrow evening in preparation to take Sarah to the airport and the
start of her journey home on Friday 1st May. She has been on Libertad for
more than two months and we will all miss her. Ewan
leaves us on Sunday morning bright and early for St Lucia and his onward flight
to Gatwick. The
Atlantic crew also fly in on Sunday, so the adventure begins. We will sail on
Monday for Nanny Cay and get Libertad vitaled and bunkered for the start of the
Voyage to Bermuda on Thursday the 7th May (Happy birthday Emily)
Will
keep you posted with more daily blogs when we get out to
sea. Best
wishes and love to you all. Paul
and the crew of Libertad. |