The Long Way Up - Carriacou to St Lucia and Kirsty and Emma's departure
LIBERTAD
Paul Huntley
Sat 14 Mar 2009 21:38
Sorry been a bit busy to be writing blogs for the
second part of our journey.. and the Caribbean is not known for it's web access
either!
So to round up I'm doing the journey back to St
Lucia from Carriacou, via the Tobago Cays, Canouan and Bequia.
Tuesday evening in Carriacou ended rather bizarely,
after a good stroll back to the boat down the beach (which is in itself a
bit weird considering we didn't leave dry land to get there) we see a herd of
cattle and chickens and goats trampling a path down the hill and into the
boatyard.....they head straight for the water and then on to the beach and
disappear out of sight - the shock of this is compounded next morning (and we
are relieved that we didn't dream it) when the herd come back!
The girls and I spend the morning sun bathing on
the dirty beach, Kirsty takes the time to play with a dead fish (admittedly at a
safe distance and with a stick) which has turned remarkably solid in the
Caribbean heat. At the same time the Paul and Tim are treating Libertad to a bit
more TLC and getting her back in the water.
So on to Tobago Cays, once she is safely back in
the water we set sail, Doris the dingy sets off on her own course at the Union
harbour - obviously Clifton drew her in and she wanted to go back. A very kind
little boat looked after her until we could navigate back to re-attach and away
we went. Tobago Cays was definately the oddest approach I've made to a mooring,
Paul headed straight for the middle on an island and just kept going - at the
last minute we realised that he had not gone mad, this was actually two islands
and there is a verty narrow channel between them which we went through very
neatly and anchored in the shelter of a few small islands and a giant reef that
goes almost 360 degrees round the little bay. When I say we anchored, this was
only temporary - a slight drift occurred whilst we were out snorkelling which
could have eneded in a very expensive insurance claim but thankfully didn't. The
snorkelling however was apparently not as good as previous times but it was my
first time and I thought it was great. There weren't as many colourful reefs and
fish as the rest had hoped but that day I saw 4 turtles (and Tim saw a lot more
too). Sarah and I decided that whilst the others got a lift with rescued Doris
back to the boat, we would swim. About 20ft out I was looking around and saw a
big ominous black shape below, it was a stingray! I almost jumped on Sarah who
was looking at the lovely turtles swimming - she too gave me a 'lets get out of
here sharpish look' and we swam away quick. Later on Tim saw another stingray
attach a group of turtles - you wouldn't argue with one!
The next morning it was pretty windy and so we decided to head on to
Canouan instead, when we arrived at Canouan we all had a swim and a beer - then
went ashore for some food shopping and to find this local restaurant that Paul
remembered from his last visit here. The restaurant was called 'The Hilltop
Restaurant' - and it earned it's name, we climbed up and there were spectacular
views, we were a bit early for dinner so we got a drink and waited. We waited
some more and some more and Sarah got bitten a bit more by the mosquitos and
finally dinner arrived. This was not as good as Paul remembers and also the
portions were small! The good music didn't make up for the poor food and
the extortianate price so the next morning Kirsty and I made pancakes to fill
everyone up again.
On the way to Bequia it was a bit rough going but I sat up on deck the
whole way (4 hours) to make the most of the sun - this ended in salt
everywhere once the spray had dried on to me - not great! After we arrived in
Bequia we got off to go to shore and get some internet access, go through
customs and do a little bit of shopping. We have found out the hard way that in
the Caribbean you need to know exactly what you want before you try to buy food
(or for that matter probably anything), or you end up answering 30 questions
whilst weighing up the merits of 10 mangos versus 20 passionfruit and also
trying not to get proposed to / given fruit to try / asked what salad you'd like
or insulting some poor veg seller at a market that you don't know the rules of
when he sulks that you wont buy the mangos or the passionfruit or the salad from
him. Anyway we reach Libertad again are asked to move moorings so
that another bigger boat can have ours. We bargain our mooring in exchange
for a lift to the bar later that evening in our mooring boys boat
- he picked us up at half eight precisely and took us there - this is the
essence of the Caribbean barter - you have to make sure you're just cheeky
enough to get a few added extras without coming across as rude!
So Paul cooked Sarah and I a lovely dinner and even a pudding while Kirsty
and Tim went out for a meal and a few drinks before joining us later for the
reggae - the reggae obviously started a bit late for our crew (the routine here
is an early start at around 6am and I seem to drop unconcious at 9pm exactly -
the rest of the crew usually hold out a lot later) so in the end we didn't
actually see the music but could hear it from Libertad anyway.
This morning (Saturday) was an early start along with an early sail,
we headed out of Bequia at quarter to seven and there was a strong wind all the
way back to St Lucia. I perfected the art of extreme sunbathing. Lying on the
back of the boat with feet under one rail and hands holding on the other, each
time a wave crashed over the boat I get soaked and with the wind this can get
quite cold. Sarah thought this was a bit too much dedication to the tan but if
you'd seen the attention that Kirsty pays to this I think it's debatable. Paul
managed to burn his ears today as well due to the sun being behind us and on the
way Tim and Sarah put a 'reef' in the sail due to the gale 6 (or maybe it was 7)
wind so you can see where my 'extreme' explanantion comes in. Paul has now
cleared us for customs in St Lucia and Kirsty is already packed ready to leave
tomorrow, my style is much more haphazard and I'll be leaving it til the last
minute in the hope that we don't have to go! A new crew member flys in tomorrow
also so we are all having a big barbecue on the boat tonight to mark the
occasion with steak.
I hand the blog mantle over to Sarah (she's secretly itching to get writing
i bet) and leave the adventures of the Grenadines and St Lucia.
It's been an amazing time and I hope to return to little Libertad some day
soon. She will eternally remind me of the song by Queen - Fat bottomed girls
make the rocking world go round!!
Love, Emma x
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