Fun on and off the scooters at Huahine

Jackamy
Paul & Derry Harper
Fri 4 Jun 2010 20:10
 
Friday 4th June
 
After re-provisioning in the morning we thought we'd hire some scooters in the afternoon and drive around the island and would you believe it there were just 3 left at the shop, perfect. one for me and Paul, one for Amy and one for Mark and Chrissy. Paul gave Amy a brief lesson on how to drive a scooter on the way to the hire shop as she had to pretend that she knew how to drive one. She didn't do too badly actually, in the beginning anyway! We started off from Fare, the main village which is on the north island and made our way anti-clockwise around the north and south islands. We noticed almost immediately how pretty the island was, it really was lovely. Our first stop was at Maeva village which was the seat of royal power on the island so there were nearly 30 marae scattered along the shoreline. We're a bit marae'd out but these were still interesting as we haven't really seen any like these before and they were also in a nice location next to the sea.
 
  
 
 
There were also old fish traps in the river. We're not too sure how they worked though.
 
We continued on our journey and came across the Belvedere lookout over onto Maroe Bay, Paravai Bay and Teavaava Bay which all link to the southern island. As we were at the lookout we knew we'd missed the 'Sacred Eels' in the river so we turned back and asked for directions. We took a bit of a gamble with the directions we were given though as we think the men Chrissy asked were sat smoking illegal substances. They simply managed to point down the road and laugh.
 
  
 
The lookout and the locals we asked for directions
 
Once a little further down the road we stopped at a shop and again Chrissy asked for directions but we were there. We bought a can of mackerel and a gentleman jumped into the river and began emptying the contents into the water. We couldn't believe what happened next. Blue eyed eels slowly started appearing from under rocks and crowding around the mans feet. We thought the eel we saw in Nuka Hiva was huge but these were something else, they were massive. The man just stood there continuously emptying the mackerel into the water. He wasn't holding the can too far above the water so the eels would jump out and try and grab the fish from his hands, it was fascinating. I'd rather him than me though!
 
 
First there were a few around his feet
 
 
Then one would jump out
 
 
Then there were two fighting for the fish
 
We asked him how old they were but he said he didn't know. They were enormous so they must have been quite old. There were however 3 cans of mackerel already in the bin when we arrived so it might just be that they are so big because they are fed so often. Who knows, we're glad we turned back to see them anyway.
 
You may have noticed before that I said Amy didn't do too badly on the scooter, 'in the beginning anyway'! Well shortly after we moved on from the eels we were making our way through the windy roads, taking in the views when we came to a very tight corner that also went up hill, double trouble as far as Amy was concerned. As she reached the corner she started to turn but didn't lean into it enough so she bottled it and actually continued driving in a straight line. Lucky for her she was going incredibly slowly and straight on wasn't over a cliff, instead it was a grassy ditch. It was all quite amusing once we'd discovered that she was ok and didn't have a scratch on her, it was actually a very graceful crash. Unfortunately the camera had run out of battery and it was in the seat of Amy's scooter so there is no photographic evidence. She was most annoyed as we had seen no traffic all day and then typically as we were getting the bike back up onto the road a pick up truck pulled up full of people all asking what had happened! Thankfully she had a dodgy scooter anyway, she'd swapped with me and Paul as we'd have still been in the first village if we'd have kept that one, it just didn't move with two of us on. The indicators didn't work, the horn didn't work and it shook violently and driving it into a ditch didn't do it any more harm.
 
  
 
Left is just before the incident and right was not long after so as you can see it didn't put her off. We let her overtake as at least we could see if she fell off again.
 
Once on the south island we realised why Miss Tippy had stayed down there so long, the beaches and scenery was stunning. We were looking for a little artisan shop but couldn't find it anywhere so a local agreed to show us where it was. He cycled a few minutes along the main road and then turned off down a dirt track until we arrived at another marae site! He'd misunderstood so we pretended that we were interested, took a few pictures and then hopped back on the bikes. Soon after we reached the bay where Miss Tippy were anchored so we parked the bikes up and changed into our swim stuff to swim out to the boat and surprise them. When we made it to the boat we realised no one was on board so swam back to the beach, typical! The swim was wonderful though, the water was crystal clear and very refreshing.
 
After that it was one long ride back to the village which took around 40 minutes. There couldn't have been anymore corners so Amy had plenty of practice, just a little too late! It was a superb afternoon and a perfect way to see the whole island when you haven't got the time frame to sail around it all. We even arrived back at Fare just in time for happy hour at the snack bar on the waterfront!
 
  
 
The snack bar 'New Te Marara' and our view from the bar, Jackamy and Blue Magic at anchor