The Tuamotus Archipelago
Jackamy
Paul & Derry Harper
Sat 24 Apr 2010 05:57
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Strung like white sand jewels across the
Pacific, the Tuamotus are a world apart. The 77 atolls, scattered like confetti
on an ocean of ink, stretch 1500km northwest to southeast and 500km east to
west. The closest islands are about 300km from Tahiti. Each coral atoll barely
rises more than 6 feet above sea level and may be difficult to see from more
than a mile or so offshore.
The Tuamotus have always been a dangerous
place for navigators and teh long remained in the shadow of the Society Islands.
That has changed thanks to pearl cultivation, which has become a central pillar
of the Polynesian economy. The growth of pearl cultivation has reversed the
outward migration of the population, which has grown from 11,793 to 15,846
people since 1983. There are 45 inhabited islands, ranging from those with a
mere handful of occupants to Rangiroa, with a total population of
3016.
General advice is to navigate only between
the 10.00 hours and 16.00 hours when the sun is high and isolated coral heads
may be easily seen, especially if approaching with the sun behind and someone
keeping a good lookout from the cross trees or bows. Amy has been nominated to
go up the mast and I will be at the bow but can either of us be trusted! The
atolls may be considered similar to a saucer with the rim being the emerging
reefs, or 'motus' as the are called in Polynesian. The necklace of coral making
up this 'rim' is in places separated by deep 'passes' through which the tide
rushes back and forth and through which the peace and calm of the inner lagoon
may be reached.
We have been recommended 3 options for
cruising the Tuatmotus to Tahiti, the first representing a relatively direct
voyage with few stops, the second takes you through the eastern islands and
you've guessed it, the third takes you through the western islands. We have
chosen the western route as Blue Magic are picking some friends up from
Rangiroa. So our first call will be Manihi, known for its pearls, although Mark
and Paul have informed Chrissy and myself that they don't have any left to sell,
especially big ones. They can't fool us! Then it is on to the biggest atoll,
Rangiroa where we'll probably do some diving. We'll probably then make another
stopover at Tikehau which despite its proximity to Tahiti, remains unspoilt and
welcoming.
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